WINNEBAGO REVEL 44E – Fresh Water System Service and Cassette Toilet Maintenance

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Fresh Water System Service and Cassette Toilet Maintenance

Parts Needed:

Step 1: Fresh Water System Overview

The fresh water system in the Revel and other Class B RVs is remarkably similar to systems in larger RVs but scaled appropriately for the smaller space. The system consists of a fresh water tank (typically 21-28 gallons in the Revel), a 12V diaphragm pump that pressurizes the system, a hot water heater (usually 6 gallons in Class B RVs), distribution lines running to all fixtures (kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower, toilet), and various valves and fittings. The compact nature of Class B construction means the water system is often integrated into tight spaces with limited access – the fresh water tank may be under the floor, the pump in a rear compartment or under a seat, and plumbing lines routed through walls and floors with minimal accessibility. Understanding the layout of your specific van’s water system is the first critical step in any maintenance or repair. Unlike Class A and C RVs where components are often in large basement compartments, Class B repairs may require removing interior panels, cabinets, or furniture. Common water system problems include pump failure (most common), leaking fittings (from vibration during travel), frozen lines (if not properly winterized), contaminated water (from old tank residue), and pressure cycling issues (pump turning on and off frequently even when water isn’t being used).

Step 2: Water Pump Diagnosis and Location

Before replacing a water pump, diagnose the problem to ensure pump replacement is actually necessary. With a full freshwater tank, turn on the water pump switch (typically located near the galley or in the electrical panel). Listen for the pump motor – it should make a distinct humming or whirring sound and build pressure within 10-15 seconds, after which the pump should shut off automatically. Open a faucet – water should flow with good pressure (30-50 PSI), and the pump should cycle on when pressure drops, then shut off when pressure is restored. If the pump runs continuously without building pressure, check for leaks in the system or a failed check valve in the pump. If the pump doesn’t run at all, check the fuse (typically 15 amp) and verify 12V power reaches the pump. If power is present but the pump doesn’t run, the motor has failed. To locate the pump in the Revel, check the rear storage area, under the dinette seat, or in a compartment near the fresh water tank. The pump is usually mounted to a surface with vibration-dampening rubber feet and has two water line connections (inlet from tank, outlet to fixtures) plus two electrical wires.

Step 3: Water Pump Removal and Replacement

Once you’ve located the pump and confirmed it needs replacement, begin the removal process by first turning off the pump at the switch and removing the pump fuse to eliminate 12V power. Open all faucets to relieve pressure in the system. Identify the inlet and outlet water connections – the inlet (from the tank) is typically marked “IN” with an arrow, while the outlet (to fixtures) is marked “OUT”. Place towels and a small container under the pump to catch water that will drain when you disconnect the lines. The Revel typically uses quick-connect fittings (push-to-connect style) on the pump – to disconnect, push the collar on the fitting toward the pump body while pulling the line away. If your pump has barbed fittings with hose clamps instead, use a screwdriver to loosen the clamps and pull the hoses off. Expect 1-2 cups of water to drain from the disconnected lines. Disconnect the electrical wires, noting their positions (positive/negative) with a photo or labels. Remove the mounting screws that secure the pump to its base and lift the old pump away.

Step 4: New Pump Installation and Testing

Prepare your new pump by installing the inlet strainer if it’s not pre-installed – this screen prevents debris from entering the pump and causing failure. Position the new pump in the exact location where the old pump was mounted, ensuring the inlet and outlet ports are oriented correctly for easy connection to existing lines. Secure the pump with the mounting screws, but don’t overtighten as this can compress the rubber isolation feet excessively. Reconnect the water lines to the appropriate ports (inlet to inlet, outlet to outlet) – for push-to-connect fittings, simply push the line firmly into the fitting until it clicks and seats (test by pulling on the line; it shouldn’t come out). For barbed fittings, slide the hose onto the barb and secure with a stainless steel hose clamp tightened until snug. Reconnect the electrical wires, matching positive to positive and negative to negative. Before closing up the compartment, test the system: reinstall the fuse, turn on the pump switch, and observe the pump while it builds pressure. Check all connections for leaks. Open faucets one at a time to purge air from the system – water will sputter initially, then flow smoothly once air is expelled.

Step 5: Cassette Toilet System Overview and Access

Many Class B RVs, including some Revel configurations, use cassette toilets rather than traditional RV toilets with black tanks. Cassette toilets have a removable waste tank (cassette) that slides out from an exterior access door for dumping at standard toilets or dump stations. This system is popular in Class B RVs because it saves space, adds flexibility (you can dump at any toilet, not just RV dump stations), and eliminates the need for a permanent black tank and associated plumbing. The cassette toilet system consists of the toilet bowl and seat (permanently mounted in the bathroom), a flush water system (usually connected to the fresh water system or a dedicated flush water tank), and the removable waste cassette (typically 4-6 gallon capacity). Common problems include seal leaks (causing odors in the van), flush mechanism failures (inadequate flushing), cassette latching problems, and vent clogs (causing vacuum when trying to dump). To access the cassette for service, open the exterior access door (usually on the driver’s side of the van) and slide the cassette out by pulling the handle while pressing the release mechanism.

Step 6: Cassette Toilet Seal Maintenance and Replacement

The most critical maintenance for cassette toilets is seal care. The cassette has a large blade seal that covers the opening between the toilet bowl and the cassette, plus O-ring seals where the cassette mates to the toilet housing. These seals keep odors contained and prevent leaks. To service the seals, remove the cassette from the van by opening the exterior door and sliding it out completely. Find a level work area (outside, as this is messy) and open the cassette. The blade seal is visible at the top of the cassette where waste enters. Inspect this seal for cracks, tears, or hardening. Clean the seal thoroughly with warm soapy water, rinse completely, and dry. Apply a coating of silicone-based seal lubricant (never use petroleum-based products on RV toilet seals as they cause deterioration). If the seal is damaged, replace it following the manufacturer’s instructions – this typically involves removing screws around the seal perimeter, removing the old seal, cleaning the mounting surface, and installing the new seal. Also inspect and lubricate the O-rings around the cassette’s perimeter where it seals against the toilet housing.

Step 7: Water System Sanitization and Winterization

At least annually (or after extended storage), sanitize the fresh water system to eliminate bacteria, biofilm, and accumulated contaminants. Begin by draining the fresh water tank completely using the drain valve (usually located underneath the van) – open the valve and allow the tank to drain fully. Drain the hot water heater by opening its drain valve and removing the pressure relief valve to allow air in for complete drainage. Calculate the amount of bleach needed: use 1/4 cup of household bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity (so for a 21-gallon tank, use approximately 1/3 cup bleach). Mix this bleach with several gallons of water and pour it into the fresh water tank through the fill port. Fill the remainder of the tank with potable water. Turn on the water pump and open each faucet (hot and cold) until you smell bleach, then close the faucets. Let the solution sit in the system for at least 4 hours (overnight is better). Drain the entire system again, then refill with fresh water and flush all faucets, the shower, and the toilet several times to remove all bleach residue. You may need to drain and refill 2-3 times to completely eliminate the chlorine smell.