PLEASURE-WAY ASCENT – Roof Seal and Skylight Maintenance

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Roof Seal and Skylight Maintenance for PLEASURE-WAY ASCENT

The Pleasure-Way Ascent is built on the Ford Transit 148″ Extended Low Roof platform, and its roof integrity is critical — every penetration point through that unpainted galvanized steel is a potential rust nucleation site if the sealant fails. The factory installs a Fantastic Fan MaxxAir vent plus the Fiamma F45s awning bracket rail, both of which require regular sealant inspection because the Transit roof flexes noticeably at highway speeds. Pleasure-Way uses self-leveling Dicor lap sealant from the factory, so you’ll be working with familiar chemistry when you reseal. Plan on a full day for this job, and only work when the roof surface is between 50°F and 90°F for proper sealant cure.

Required Parts

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Set Up Safely and Access the Roof

The Transit 148″ EL roof sits roughly 9.5 feet off the ground — do not attempt this job with a single stepladder leaned against the drip rail. Use a wide-base A-frame ladder positioned at the rear corner, or better yet, work alongside a raised truck bed or loading dock. Before climbing, disconnect shore power from the TT-30 inlet (located on the driver-side rear quarter panel) and turn off the Victron MultiPlus-II using its front panel rocker switch — roof work can disturb wiring at the MaxxAir fan junction box, and you don’t want 120V live during the job. Lay two 24-inch-wide sections of ¾-inch plywood across the roof to distribute your body weight — the Transit low-roof skin will dent under point loads. Keep a second person on the ground to hand up materials and act as a spotter. Wear rubber-soled shoes; the galvanized steel roof becomes dangerously slippery when wet or coated with Dicor residue. Have all your tools staged in a bucket you can clip to the ladder so you’re not making unnecessary trips up and down.

Step 2: Inspect and Document Every Penetration and Seam

On the Ascent’s roof you have four primary leak zones: (1) the MaxxAir vent flange — a 14×14-inch cutout roughly centered on the roof, approximately 24 inches back from the front roof bow; (2) the Fiamma F45s mounting rail, which runs along the driver-side roof edge and uses M6 bolts threaded into the Transit’s upper body rail — each bolt head is a separate penetration point; (3) any manufacturer-installed antenna or solar conduit pass-throughs, typically located near the rear roof section; and (4) the factory roof seam that runs longitudinally down the center of the Transit roof. Photograph every penetration before touching anything. Look specifically for Dicor that has pulled away from the MaxxAir flange corners — corners cure faster than flat sections and crack first. Check the Fiamma rail bolt heads for Dicor that has turned brown or chalky, which indicates UV degradation and loss of elasticity. Press the existing sealant gently with your fingernail — healthy Dicor compresses slightly; failed Dicor is hard and springy. Note any rust staining bleeding from under sealant, as this signals water has already reached bare steel and requires primer treatment before resealing.

Step 3: Clean the Roof Membrane and Bare Metal Thoroughly

Start at the front of the roof and work rearward so dirty rinse water doesn’t flow over cleaned sections. Apply the Dicor rubber roof cleaner and degreaser full-strength to a 4-foot section using a stiff-bristle brush, scrubbing in circular motions. Pay particular attention to the greasy film that accumulates around the MaxxAir fan housing — kitchen exhaust exits through that vent and leaves a cooking-oil residue that will prevent new sealant from bonding. Use the plastic putty knife set to remove old, failed Dicor — work at a low angle, almost parallel to the roof surface, to avoid gouging the galvanized steel or tearing any existing membrane material. Never use a metal scraper. Around the Fiamma mounting rail, work the plastic blade under each raised edge of old sealant carefully — the bolt heads sit proud of the rail and old sealant bridges them, trapping moisture underneath. Rinse each cleaned section with fresh water from a garden sprayer and allow to dry completely — minimum 30 minutes in direct sun, longer in shade or humidity. The roof must be bone dry before any sealant or tape is applied. Wipe final surfaces with a clean lint-free rag to remove any remaining dust or cleaner residue.

Step 4: Treat Any Rust and Prime Bare Metal Areas

This step is one most DIYers skip — and it’s why their repairs fail in 18 months. The Ford Transit’s galvanized steel roof will show orange rust bloom at any penetration where water has been sitting under failed sealant, especially at the Fiamma M6 bolt heads and the MaxxAir flange corners. Use 80-grit sandpaper to feather out rust back to clean, shiny metal — do not leave any loose rust scale under new sealant. If rust has developed significant pitting, treat the area with a rust converter product before proceeding. Once bare metal is clean and dry, apply the Liquid Rubber EPDM/TPO primer using a disposable brush, covering all bare metal areas and extending 2 inches onto any surrounding intact surface. The primer is light gray and will look almost translucent when first applied — that’s normal. Allow the primer to become tacky but not fully cured, typically 20 to 40 minutes depending on temperature, before applying sealant over it. Primed areas will bond dramatically better to both EternaBond tape and Dicor than bare metal or cleaned-but-unprimed galvanized steel. Do not skip priming around the Fiamma rail — that entire driver-side edge sees significant water runoff and needs the extra adhesion insurance.

Step 5: Apply EternaBond Tape at High-Stress Seams

EternaBond RoofSeal tape is your structural repair layer — use it anywhere that has visible cracking, gaps larger than 1/8 inch, or previous repair history. On the Ascent, the two highest-priority EternaBond locations are the full perimeter of the MaxxAir vent flange and the Fiamma F45s mounting rail on the driver-side roof edge. Cut 4-inch tape to length with scissors — do not tear it, as ragged edges lift. Peel back the first 3 inches of release liner, align the tape centered over the seam, and press firmly with your thumb before pulling the liner back progressively. The tape must be pressed using the J-roller with firm, overlapping strokes — hand pressure alone leaves air pockets that will channel water. Roll the entire length at least twice, applying your full body weight through the roller. At the MaxxAir flange corners, cut a small 45-degree notch into the tape edge so it folds cleanly around the corner without bunching. Overlap tape sections by a minimum of 2 inches — never butt them end-to-end. EternaBond is permanent; once pressed down it cannot be repositioned, so measure twice. The silver-foil facing side faces up. After rolling, run your fingernail along both tape edges to confirm full contact — any lifted edge will become an entry point.

Step 6: Reseal All Penetrations with Self-Leveling Dicor

Load the self-leveling Dicor lap sealant into the drip-free caulking gun — the drip-free mechanism matters here because you’ll be working overhead on a sloped surface and standard guns will keep oozing. Cut the tube tip at a 45-degree angle to produce a 3/8-inch bead. Working around the MaxxAir vent flange, apply a continuous bead along the junction between the vent flange and the roof surface, covering any EternaBond tape edge you’ve installed. Self-leveling Dicor will flow and self-smooth on horizontal surfaces — don’t over-tool it with your finger, as this introduces air bubbles. At the Fiamma mounting rail, apply a generous bead over each M6 bolt head, creating a dome of sealant that covers the entire bolt head plus 1 inch of surrounding surface. The bolt heads are typically spaced every 8 to 10 inches along the rail — count them before you start so you don’t miss one. For any antenna or solar conduit pass-throughs at the rear of the roof, apply sealant in a circular bead pattern around the fitting base. Allow Dicor to skin over for 4 hours before any rain exposure, and allow 24 hours for full cure before driving at highway speeds, which flex the roof and stress fresh sealant.

Step 7: Apply EPDM Roof Coating and Conduct Final Inspection

The EPDM rubber roof coating is your UV protection and moisture barrier over the entire roof surface — think of it as sunscreen that also waterproofs. Stir the coating thoroughly for 3 full minutes before use; the titanium dioxide pigment settles heavily. Apply using the 3-inch paint roller in smooth, overlapping strokes working from front to rear so you’re always rolling onto uncovered surface. Apply two coats: the first coat should be thin and even, allowed to cure for 2 to 4 hours until it loses its wet sheen, then apply the second coat perpendicular to the first for full coverage. Do not coat over fresh Dicor that hasn’t skinned — wait the full 4-hour skin time first. Keep the coating off the MaxxAir fan housing lid, the Fiamma F45s awning cassette body, and any solar panel surfaces. Once fully cured — typically overnight — perform a final inspection by pressing along every sealed edge with your thumb looking for soft spots or unbonded areas. From inside the van, check the MaxxAir fan mounting ring in the headliner for any water staining you might have missed from the outside. Reconnect shore power and restore the Victron MultiPlus-II. Log the date and condition of all penetrations in your maintenance records — Pleasure-Way recommends full roof inspection every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.

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