DUTCHMEN ASPEN TRAIL 2060BH - Furnace Igniter Replacement

DUTCHMEN ASPEN TRAIL 2060BH – Furnace Igniter Replacement

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Complete repair guide for the DUTCHMEN ASPEN TRAIL 2060BH – Furnace Igniter Replacement.

Parts & Tools You’ll Need

Step 1: Diagnose Furnace Ignition System Failure

Start by verifying that your furnace isn’t producing heat and listen for the blower motor attempting to run when you set the thermostat above the current temperature. Turn off the propane supply at the tank and disconnect the negative battery terminal to ensure safety during diagnosis. Locate your furnace compartment (typically accessed from the bedroom or kitchen cabinet area on the 2060BH) and visually inspect the Suburban NT-16 or Atwood 8535-IV control board for any visible burn marks, corrosion, or loose wire connections. Check that the sail switch—a small mechanical switch activated by blower airflow—moves freely and isn’t stuck in the open position, which would prevent ignition.

Step 2: Remove Furnace Access Panel and Disconnect Power

Turn off the main circuit breaker for your RV’s 12-volt DC system and verify the power is off by attempting to activate the furnace once more. Remove the furnace access cover by unscrewing the four corner fasteners (typically Phillips head, requiring moderate hand pressure). Carefully disconnect all wiring harnesses from the control board, taking a photo or labeling each connector with tape to ensure correct reinstallation. Note the wire colors and terminal positions—the igniter control and sail switch typically use a two-pin or three-pin connector that fits snugly into the main board.

Step 3: Replace the Furnace Control Board Unit

Unbolt the existing control board from its mounting bracket using a 7/16-inch wrench or socket, typically requiring removal of two bolts torqued to approximately 25-30 inch-pounds. Carefully slide the old board out and set it aside, noting the orientation of any thermal sensors or limit switch connections that may be directly soldered or crimped. Position your new Suburban NT-16 or Atwood 8535-IV control board into the same mounting location, ensuring the board sits flat and flush against the bracket. Insert and hand-tighten the mounting bolts first, then torque them to 25-30 inch-pounds in a cross pattern to avoid warping the circuit board.

Step 4: Install and Test the Furnace Sail Switch

Locate the sail switch assembly, typically positioned in the blower intake duct where it’s actuated by moving air. Remove the old sail switch by unbolting it from the duct and disconnecting its two-wire terminal connector from the control board. Install the new Furnace Sail Switch Replacement by aligning the switch body with the duct opening and tightening the mounting bolts to approximately 20 inch-pounds—avoid over-tightening, as this can jam the internal flapper mechanism. Reconnect the sail switch terminals to the control board and manually verify that the switch lever moves freely through its full range of motion with light finger pressure.

Step 5: Reconnect Control Board Wiring and Connectors

Using your photo or tape labels from Step 2, reconnect each wiring harness to its corresponding terminal on the new control board, ensuring connectors are fully seated until you hear or feel a click. For the spark igniter electrode connection, align the two-pin connector carefully and apply gentle, steady pressure—do not force connectors as this can damage the internal contacts. Double-check that the thermostat control wires (typically red and white) are seated in their correct terminals, and verify the 12-volt positive and ground wires are connected securely. Inspect all connections visually and gently tug each connector to confirm it will not come loose during furnace operation.

Step 6: Verify Thermal Safety Systems and Air Intake

Inspect the Thermal High-Limit Cutoff Switch (usually a small cylindrical component mounted near the combustion chamber) to confirm it’s not damaged or loose; if it appears corroded, replace it now to prevent future ignition failures. Check the Combustion Air Intake Screen for debris, spider webs, or obstruction that could restrict airflow and trigger the high-limit cutoff—clean the screen with a soft brush if necessary. Ensure the blower motor housing is clear of lint and dust by vacuuming or gently wiping with a dry cloth, paying special attention to the motor intake vents. Verify that all components are fully secured before proceeding to power-up.

Step 7: Test Furnace Ignition and Monitor Performance

Reconnect the negative battery terminal and turn the main 12-volt circuit breaker back on, then set your thermostat 5 degrees above the current ambient temperature to trigger the furnace sequence. Listen for the blower motor to start within 10-15 seconds; if it doesn’t run, check that the sail switch and control board connectors are fully seated. Allow the furnace to run for at least 10 minutes and verify that warm air is flowing from the registers and that the sail switch lever moves with the airflow. Turn the thermostat down to below ambient temperature to shut the furnace off, then repeat the test cycle two more times to confirm consistent ignition and operation. If the furnace fails to ignite or shuts down unexpectedly, verify that propane is supplied, the battery voltage is at least 11 volts DC, and all connections are secure before concluding the repair.