Furnace Maintenance and Repair for JAYCO REDHAWK
This comprehensive guide will walk you through repairing furnace maintenance and repair on your JAYCO REDHAWK. Follow each step carefully and gather all required parts before beginning.
Required Parts
- Suburban or Atwood furnace motor – Part Number: Suburban 233106 or Atwood 37357, Price Range: $80-$150
- Furnace fan blade – Part Number: Suburban 232322 or Atwood 31034, Price Range: $15-$30
- Sail switch – Part Number: Suburban 230314, Price Range: $18-$35
- Furnace electrode/igniter – Part Number: Suburban 233283 or Atwood 37585, Price Range: $25-$45
- Furnace circuit board (if needed) – Model-specific, typically $80-$180
- Gas orifice/jet – Varies by altitude
- Flue pipe seal kit – High-temp silicone sealant
- Canned air duster
- Multimeter
- Small brushes for cleaning
- Furnace intake/exhaust vent covers (if damaged)
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Furnace System Diagnosis
The Jayco Redhawk typically uses either a Suburban or Atwood forced-air furnace for heating, with 20,000-30,000 BTU capacity depending on RV length. These furnaces operate on propane and use 12V DC power for the blower motor, ignition system, and control board. Common furnace problems include: no response when thermostat calls for heat (check circuit breaker and thermostat batteries), blower runs but no ignition (typically electrode or gas supply issue), furnace lights but quickly shuts off (often a sail switch or flue problem), or furnace runs but produces insufficient heat (dirty burner or restricted venting). Before attempting repairs, verify basic operation: confirm propane tanks are full and valves are open, check the furnace circuit breaker (usually 15 amp), verify thermostat has fresh batteries and is set to HEAT mode at temperature above current RV temperature, and listen for any sounds when thermostat calls for heat.
Step 2: Accessing Furnace Components
Access to the furnace depends on your specific Redhawk floor plan. The furnace is typically located under a dinette seat, in a bedroom cabinet, or in an exterior compartment. Remove any panels, cushions, or screws blocking access to the furnace housing. Most furnaces have removable panels secured by sheet metal screws – remove these carefully and set aside. Once the outer cover is removed, you’ll see the main components: the blower motor and fan assembly at one end, the burner chamber in the middle, and the circuit board mounted to the side. Do not remove the burner chamber cover (the section where combustion occurs) unless absolutely necessary, as it’s sealed with gasket material. Take photos before disconnecting any wires or components. Verify that the furnace has had adequate cool-down time if it was recently running, as internal components can remain hot for 30+ minutes after operation.
Step 3: Blower Motor Service and Replacement
The blower motor is the most common furnace failure point, as these motors run continuously when heating and accumulate dust and debris over years of use. To remove the blower motor assembly, first disconnect all electrical connections, noting wire positions with photos or labels. The motor is typically secured by 3-4 screws around the motor housing perimeter. Remove these screws and carefully pull the motor and fan assembly from the furnace housing. Inspect the fan blade (squirrel cage style) for damage, excessive dirt accumulation, or loose mounting on the motor shaft. Clean the fan blade thoroughly using compressed air and soft brushes. Check the motor shaft for smooth rotation – it should spin freely without binding or unusual noise. If the motor is seized, has worn bearings, or burnt windings, replacement is necessary. Install the new motor by reversing the removal procedure.
Step 4: Sail Switch Testing and Replacement
The sail switch is a critical safety device that verifies proper airflow before allowing gas to flow to the burner. It’s a small switch with a lightweight metal “sail” that lifts when the blower operates. If the furnace blower runs but ignition never occurs, a failed sail switch is a likely cause. Locate the sail switch (usually mounted in the duct airflow path near the blower). Using a multimeter set to continuity mode, test the switch by manually lifting the sail – you should hear/see continuity when the sail is up and no continuity when down. If the switch doesn’t change state, it has failed. Remove the old switch by disconnecting its two wires and removing mounting screws. Install the new sail switch in the same position and orientation, ensuring the sail moves freely in the airflow. Verify nothing obstructs the sail’s movement as this will prevent furnace operation.
Step 5: Electrode Cleaning and Adjustment
The electrode (sometimes called the igniter) creates the spark that ignites the propane at the burner. Over time, electrodes can become fouled with soot or corrosion, preventing proper sparking. To access the electrode, remove the burner chamber cover (this may break a seal that will need to be replaced). The electrode is a metal rod positioned near the burner orifice, with a wire leading to it. Visually inspect the electrode tip for heavy carbon buildup, corrosion, or damage. Clean the electrode tip carefully using very fine sandpaper or a wire brush, being careful not to bend or damage the electrode. The gap between the electrode and the burner orifice is critical – it should be approximately 1/8″ (3mm). Use a gap gauge or measure carefully. If the electrode is cracked, bent, or has a damaged porcelain insulator, replace it. Test for spark by having someone turn on the thermostat while you observe the electrode in dim lighting – you should see a bright blue spark jumping from the electrode to ground.
Step 6: Combustion Chamber and Venting Inspection
Poor heating or frequent shutdowns can result from restricted airflow through the combustion chamber or exhaust flue. With the burner chamber cover removed (if your diagnosis required this), inspect the burner screen and orifice for rust, debris, or spider webs – spiders love to nest in furnace vents during off-season storage. Carefully vacuum or brush away any debris. The burner orifice (the small brass nozzle that meters gas flow) should be clear and undamaged. Outside the RV, inspect both the furnace intake and exhaust vents – these are usually louvered vents on the RV’s exterior wall. Remove any leaves, mud, or debris. Birds’ nests in the flue are not uncommon if the RV has been stored outdoors. Inside the RV, check the cold air return vents (usually floor or wall grilles) to ensure they’re not blocked by storage items or floor mats – restricted air intake causes the sail switch to fail.
Step 7: Reassembly and Testing
After completing all repairs and cleaning, reassemble the furnace in reverse order, ensuring all screws are reinstalled and all electrical connections are properly secured. If you removed the burner chamber cover, apply a thin bead of high-temperature silicone sealant around the rim before reinstalling the cover – this creates a combustion seal that prevents exhaust gases from entering the living space. Do not skip this step. Close all access panels and restore the RV interior. Ensure all cold air returns are unobstructed. Set the thermostat to call for heat and observe a complete heating cycle from start to finish. The blower should start immediately, followed by ignition (you may hear clicking), then the burner should light with a characteristic “whoosh” sound. Allow the furnace to run for at least 10-15 minutes to ensure it doesn’t shut off prematurely. Check the exhaust vent outside for steady warm airflow. Monitor the interior temperature to verify adequate heat output. If everything operates normally, perform this complete test 2-3 times to ensure reliability.