Leveling Jack System Maintenance for JAYCO REDHAWK
This comprehensive guide will walk you through repairing leveling jack system maintenance on your JAYCO REDHAWK. Follow each step carefully and gather all required parts before beginning.
Required Parts
- Hydraulic fluid (Dexron III ATF) – Any quality ATF fluid, Quantity: 2 quarts, Price Range: $12-$18
- Lippert leveling pump motor – Part Number: LC167576 or LC414850, Price Range: $180-$320
- Leveling system solenoid – Part Number: LC118246, Price Range: $45-$75
- Landing gear foot pads (if damaged) – Part Number: Lippert 285736, Price Range: $15-$25 each
- Hydraulic line (if damaged) – Various sizes by diameter
- Jack boot/cover replacement – Part Number: Lippert Components boots
- Wire brush and contact cleaner
- Hydraulic seal kit (if leaking) – Part Number: Lippert seal kit
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Leveling System Overview and Diagnosis
The Jayco Redhawk typically comes equipped with a Lippert hydraulic leveling system, either a 4-point system (one jack at each corner) or a 6-point system (additional jacks at the center of each side). Understanding how the system works is essential for effective diagnosis. The system consists of a 12-volt hydraulic pump assembly that pressurizes hydraulic fluid, solenoid valves that direct fluid to specific jacks, hydraulic cylinders (the jacks themselves), and a control panel inside the RV. When you press a button on the control panel to lower a specific jack or engage auto-leveling, the pump activates, a solenoid opens to direct fluid to that cylinder, and the jack extends. Common problems include: pump runs but jacks don’t move (typically low fluid or failed solenoid), pump doesn’t run at all (electrical problem or failed pump motor), one jack doesn’t work but others do (specific solenoid failure), or leaking hydraulic fluid (damaged seals or lines).
Step 2: Safety Preparation and Initial Inspection
Working on leveling systems can be dangerous if proper safety precautions aren’t followed. Never work under an RV that’s supported only by leveling jacks – jacks are designed for leveling, not for supporting the full weight during repairs. Place jack stands under the frame rails and lower the jacks to ensure the RV is safely supported. Disconnect shore power and turn off the leveling system switch inside the RV. Locate the leveling system components under the RV – the pump assembly is usually mounted near the front or center in a protected location, while the hydraulic lines run to each jack position. Perform a complete visual inspection of all components, looking for obvious issues: hydraulic fluid on the ground (indicates leaks), damaged or kinked hydraulic lines, corroded electrical connections, damaged jack boots, bent jack tubes, or missing foot pads. Take photographs of all components to document your findings.
Step 3: Hydraulic Fluid Level Check and Service
Low hydraulic fluid is one of the most common causes of leveling system problems and is often the result of minor leaks that accumulate over time. Locate the hydraulic fluid reservoir, which is usually integrated into the pump housing or mounted adjacent to it. The reservoir will have a fill cap, often marked with a MAX and MIN line or dipstick. With the system off and all jacks retracted (RV on jack stands), remove the fill cap and check the fluid level. The fluid should be at the FULL or MAX mark. If low, add Dexron III automatic transmission fluid until the level reaches FULL – do NOT overfill as this can cause operational problems. If you’re adding more than a quart of fluid, there’s definitely a leak somewhere that needs repair. While the cap is off, inspect the fluid condition – it should be clear to light amber colored. Dark, dirty fluid or fluid with a burnt smell indicates overheating or internal wear and should be replaced completely by draining the system.
Step 4: Electrical System Testing
Many leveling system problems are electrical rather than hydraulic. Using a digital multimeter, verify 12-volt power is reaching the pump when you press any jack button on the control panel. The power wire to the pump is usually red or orange and connects via a terminal or plug. If there’s no voltage at the pump when buttons are pressed, check the leveling system fuse in your 12V distribution panel (usually a 30-40 amp fuse). Also check for 12V power at each solenoid – these are small cylindrical components mounted on the pump manifold, typically with two wires connected to each. When you press a specific jack button, that jack’s solenoid should receive 12V, causing it to open and direct fluid flow. If the pump receives power but doesn’t run, it may be seized or the motor may have failed. Try tapping the pump body sharply with a rubber mallet while someone holds the control button – sometimes a stuck motor will free up with this technique.
Step 5: Pump Motor Replacement
If testing confirms the pump motor has failed (has power but won’t run even after tapping), motor replacement is necessary. First, relieve all hydraulic pressure by attempting to lower jacks with the system turned on (even though the motor won’t run, this opens solenoid valves to release trapped pressure). Disconnect the battery to eliminate power. Disconnect all electrical connections to the pump motor, taking photos of wire positions before removal. Disconnect the hydraulic lines from the pump manifold – hydraulic fluid will drain so have a catch pan ready and cap open lines immediately with rubber caps or tape to prevent contamination. Remove the mounting bolts securing the pump assembly to the frame (typically 3-4 bolts). Lower the pump assembly carefully as it will still contain residual fluid and is moderately heavy. Transfer all solenoids, fittings, and brackets from the old pump to the new one, or purchase these components separately if needed.
Step 6: Solenoid Replacement
If only a specific jack fails to operate while others work normally, that jack’s solenoid has likely failed. Solenoids are electromagnetic valves that control hydraulic fluid flow to individual jacks. They’re mounted on the pump manifold and are relatively easy to replace individually without disturbing the entire pump. Relieve system pressure first by trying to lower all jacks (with power on even though they won’t move). Disconnect battery power. Identify the failed solenoid by tracing the hydraulic line from the non-working jack back to the pump manifold. Disconnect the electrical wires from that solenoid (typically a two-wire connection). Using two wrenches (one to hold the manifold fitting, one to turn the solenoid), unscrew the solenoid by turning counterclockwise. Have rags ready to catch dripping fluid. Install the new solenoid by coating the threads with Teflon paste (not tape, which can clog valves), hand-threading it into the manifold, then tightening with a wrench – snug but not over-tight as brass manifolds can crack.
Step 7: System Bleeding and Testing
After any hydraulic system service, proper bleeding is essential to remove air from the lines. Air in hydraulic systems causes spongy operation, slow jack movement, or complete failure. With all service complete and connections tight, check and top off hydraulic fluid. Reconnect the battery. From the control panel, extend each jack one at a time, fully extending each before moving to the next. This pushes fluid through the system and helps purge air. You may hear squealing or grinding sounds initially – this is normal as air works its way out. Retract all jacks fully. Check the fluid level again and add as needed (extending jacks pulls fluid from the reservoir). Repeat the full extension/retraction cycle 2-3 times. By the third cycle, all jacks should move smoothly and quietly. Check all connections for leaks, tightening as needed. Test the auto-leveling function (if equipped) on level ground to verify proper operation. Regular maintenance should include checking fluid levels monthly during the camping season and annually replacing the hydraulic fluid by draining and refilling the system.