Water Pump Service for JAYCO REDHAWK
This comprehensive guide will walk you through repairing water pump service on your JAYCO REDHAWK. Follow each step carefully and gather all required parts before beginning.
Required Parts
- Shurflo 4008-101-E65 or equivalent – Part Number: 4008-101-E65, Price Range: $130-$180
- Wire connectors
- Teflon tape
- Strainer
- O-rings
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Diagnosis and Preparation
Before you start the replacement process, confirm that your water pump has actually failed and isn’t experiencing a simple electrical issue. Start by ensuring your battery is fully charged using a multimeter to verify at least 12.0 volts. Fill your freshwater tank completely and make certain that the city water connection is disconnected, as having both systems engaged can confuse your diagnosis. Locate your water pump switch, typically found at the monitor panel near the entry door or in the kitchen area. Turn the switch to the “on” position and open any faucet inside the RV to create demand on the system. You should hear a distinctive humming or cycling sound from the pump, and water should flow from the faucet within 3-5 seconds. If the pump remains completely silent and no water flows, first check the fuse in your 12V distribution panel before assuming pump failure.
Step 2: Locating and Accessing the Water Pump
Water pumps in the Winnebago Minnie Winnie are typically located near the fresh water tank, often in the front pass-through storage compartment or beneath a cabinet inside the RV near the convenience center. You’ll need to remove an access panel, which is usually held in place by Phillips head screws. Have a flashlight ready as these areas can be dark and cramped. Once you’ve located the pump, you’ll notice it’s mounted to the floor with rubber isolation mounts to reduce vibration noise. Take several photographs from multiple angles before disconnecting anything – these photos will be invaluable during reassembly. Clear the area around the pump and place towels or a small bucket underneath to catch any residual water that will drain from the system when you disconnect the water lines.
Step 3: Electrical Disconnection
Safety is paramount when working with 12-volt systems, so begin by turning off the water pump switch at your control panel and removing the water pump fuse from your 12V distribution panel. This ensures no power can accidentally energize the system while you’re working. The water pump will have two wires connected to it: a positive (typically red) and a negative (typically black or white). These are usually connected with bell cap twist connectors. Hold the base of the connector firmly and twist counterclockwise to remove. If the connectors are corroded or difficult to remove, you might need to cut the wires approximately 2 inches from the pump, leaving enough wire length to work with for the new pump installation. Strip approximately 1/2 inch of insulation from the wire ends using wire strippers, being careful not to nick or damage the copper strands.
Step 4: Water Line Disconnection
With the electrical system safely disconnected, you can now address the plumbing connections. The water pump will have two water line connections: an inlet line (coming from the freshwater tank) and an outlet line (going to the RV’s plumbing system). These connections are typically 1/2 inch plastic or brass fittings with compression or barbed connections. Before loosening these connections, open a faucet inside the RV to relieve any pressure in the lines. Place your towels and bucket strategically as water will definitely spill when you disconnect the lines. Turn the fittings counterclockwise by hand initially, then use an adjustable wrench if needed, being careful not to overtighten or strip the plastic threads. Inspect the O-rings on each connection carefully – if they show any signs of cracking, flattening, or deterioration, they must be replaced to prevent future leaks.
Step 5: Physical Pump Removal
Once all electrical and plumbing connections are freed, you can remove the pump from its mounting location. Most water pumps are secured to the floor with four mounting screws that pass through rubber isolation feet or grommets. These rubber mounts serve the crucial purpose of dampening vibration and reducing operational noise. Remove these mounting screws (typically #10 or #12 sheet metal screws) and carefully set them aside in a labeled container – you’ll need these same screws for installation. Lift the old pump out of its location, being mindful that some residual water may drain from the pump housing. If your old pump has a strainer attached to the inlet side (a white or clear plastic screen filter), carefully remove this strainer as you’ll want to transfer it to the new pump for continued protection against debris.
Step 6: New Pump Preparation and Installation
Unbox your new water pump and verify that all parts are included, particularly any mounting hardware, strainers, and O-rings. If your old pump had a strainer and the new one doesn’t include one, you must transfer the old strainer to maintain system filtration. Apply a thin layer of silicone grease to all O-rings to ensure proper sealing and easier installation. Position the new pump in the exact location where the old pump was mounted, ensuring the inlet and outlet ports are oriented correctly for easy connection to your existing water lines. Thread the mounting screws through the rubber isolation feet and into the floor, tightening them until snug but not over-tightened – over-tightening can compress the rubber mounts too much and actually increase vibration noise. The pump should sit firmly but with slight give in the rubber mounts.
Step 7: Plumbing Reconnection and Testing
Reconnect the water lines to your new pump, being extremely careful to match inlet to inlet and outlet to outlet – reversing these connections can damage the pump or prevent proper operation. Hand-tighten the connections first, then use a wrench to snug them an additional quarter-turn past finger-tight. Do not over-tighten as this can crack plastic fittings or crush O-rings. Before reconnecting the electrical system, perform a visual leak test by turning on your city water connection with very low pressure and observing all connections for several minutes. Once confirmed leak-free, reconnect the electrical wires, matching positive to positive and negative to negative, using fresh wire connectors. Replace the fuse in your distribution panel and turn on the pump switch. You’ll hear the pump cycle as it builds pressure. Open each faucet one at a time to purge air from the lines, running water until the flow is steady and consistent without sputtering.