WINNEBAGO EKKO – Awning Mechanism Repair and Fabric Replacement

Awning Mechanism Repair and Fabric Replacement for WINNEBAGO EKKO

I pulled the old fabric off my Ekko’s Thule HideAway 1200 last month and found UV damage I couldn’t see from the ground—hairline cracks running parallel to the leading edge seam, the kind that start leaking water into the wall cavity before you realize the fabric’s compromised. That discovery is exactly why I’m writing this: the awning isn’t flashy work, but when the motor grinds or the fabric tears, you lose your primary sun and rain barrier, and depending on where you’re parked and what month it is, that turns a comfortable site into a sweltering or damp box. I’ve walked through a complete fabric replacement and motor service on my own rig—timing it took about three hours the first pass—and documented every step so you can avoid both the dealer markup and the scramble to find a mobile tech on a weekend.

Required Parts

• Replacement awning fabric (measure your awning width before ordering) Heavy-Duty RV Awning Fabric Replacement 16ft – RV Canopy
• Universal replacement awning motor (Solera / Dometic compatible) Aaiov 373566 RV Awning Motor Replacement – Universal, Solera Power Awning Compatible
• Awning roller tube replacement (for A&E and similar systems) Solera Awning Roller and Fabric Assembly 10′ Black/White
• UV-resistant awning pull strap (27″, sewn in USA) EZ-Xtend RV Awning Pull Strap, UV Polyester Webbing, 27″ – Made in USA
• Camco awning de-flappers / wind stabilizers (2-pack) Camco Awning De-Flapper Max – Rust-Resistant Wind Stabilizer, 2 Pack (42251)
• Telescoping awning rod / hook (13¾”–44¾” reach) Scottchen PRO RV Awning Rod Opener, Telescopic Puller 13-3/4″ to 44-3/4″, Stainless Steel
• Safety fall-protection strap (for ladder work at van height) TRSMIMA Safety Strap Fall Protection – 6ft Cross Arm Anchor Strap with Double D Ring

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Identify What’s Broken and Prepare Your Work Area

Start by fully extending the awning in calm conditions and examining it from ground level without climbing anything yet. On the Thule HideAway 1200, watch for these specific failure markers: fraying or chalky UV breakdown along the fabric’s leading edge hem, a worn or detached pull strap connection at the roller tube, a grinding or hesitant motor sound when you hit the switch on the Ekko’s B-pillar panel, or visible cracks in the plastic end caps on the cassette housing. Knowing whether you’re dealing with motor trouble, fabric degradation, or both changes how you approach disassembly. Here’s what you’ll actually need in hand: a #2 Phillips screwdriver, a T25 Torx bit, a 10mm socket paired with a ratchet, needle-nose pliers, a utility knife, a rubber mallet, and a clean tarp to lay on the ground so the fabric doesn’t pick up dirt during removal. Locate the awning’s power wire inside the driver-side under-bed compartment—it feeds from the 12V distribution panel near the Xantrex Freedom XC inverter—and disconnect it completely. Tag that wire with tape before you pull it so reinstall is unmistakable. This step matters because the motor can unexpectedly actuate if power stays live.

Step 2: Establish Safe Working Height and Brace the Awning Arms

The Ekko rides on a Transit 350 HD platform, which puts the roofline near 9 feet and seats the awning cassette around 7.5 feet—definitely too high for a step stool and marginal for a standard ladder if you’re doing two-handed work. Bring a solid 6-foot platform ladder to the job and attach your safety strap to a roof rack rail or the factory drip rail before leaning over the edge. Never stand on the Ekko’s rear fiberglass cap or use the roof itself as a step; that cap is a water-entry hotspot and can’t handle body weight. Ask a helper to extend the awning approximately 12 inches—just far enough to reveal the roller tube end caps—then have them manually support the arms at the midpoint so the tube doesn’t spin freely while you’re working. The HideAway 1200 has two small lever-clamps near the wall brackets on each arm; push those down to lock the arms in place and stop them from collapsing unexpectedly. If de-flappers are already fitted to the lead rail, pry them off with a flathead screwdriver and set them aside—they’ll just block your access. You’ll put them back on after the new fabric is installed.

Step 3: Detach the Cassette End Caps and Remove the Roller Tube

With the awning sitting at that 12-inch extended position, both end caps of the aluminum cassette housing are now visible—one toward the cab and one toward the rear near the exterior compartment. Two T25 Torx fasteners hold each cap in place; remove all four and rest the caps on your tarp. Inside each cap sits a small plastic retainer clip that locks the roller tube’s end plug—squeeze those clips with needle-nose pliers to release them. Once both clips are free, have your helper hold the roller tube’s middle while you push it rearward about one inch, then drop the forward end and slide the entire tube out. The tube itself is aluminum and spans roughly 10 feet on a standard Ekko—it’s lighter than you’d expect, but it becomes a dangerous lever if grip is lost partway through. Set it down on your tarp. If you notice the tube is bent, corroded at the end plugs, or cracked anywhere along its length, swap it for a replacement now rather than risk premature failure in the new fabric. A warped tube feeds fabric unevenly into the retract path and shreds quality replacements in weeks.

Step 4: Strip Off the Old Fabric and Clean the Roller Tube

Lay the roller tube flat on the tarp and find the fabric attachment channel—it’s an aluminum extrusion with a T-slot profile running the full length. The old fabric’s sewn hem contains a plastic bead that locks into that slot. Start at the rearward end, grip the bead firmly, and pull it straight out of the channel while peeling the fabric away from the tube. If the bead has swollen from weather or UV, work a blunt screwdriver down the channel to coax it free—don’t yank the fabric off or you’ll fragment the bead and leave pieces lodged in the slot that will prevent the new fabric from seating flat. Roll the old fabric tightly and set it aside for disposal. Now is the moment to inspect the tube itself: check both end plugs for cracks, verify the internal spring mechanism hasn’t lost tension (you should feel resistance when you manually rotate the tube), and examine the motor drive socket on the motorized end. Spray the channel with silicone-based lubricant, then wipe it dry with a clean rag to remove any grit—this prep work prevents the new fabric hem from wearing prematurely.

Step 5: Diagnose and Service the Motor if It’s Not Responding

If the original problem was a stalled, clicking, or completely unresponsive awning, tackle it now before the fresh fabric goes on. The HideAway 1200’s motor is housed inside the motorized end of the roller tube; access it by pulling out the end plug on the cab-side (forward) end. That plug may need a firm straight pull or a gentle tap from a rubber mallet. The motor assembly slides out as one piece, and a two-wire Molex-style connector links it to the awning’s harness—disconnect that clip. With the connector exposed, have a helper hit the B-pillar switch while you check for 12V DC across those terminals with a multimeter. If voltage is present but the motor doesn’t engage, the motor has failed internally and needs replacement. A universal replacement motor for Solera and Dometic-compatible HideAway systems will fit; just confirm the hex drive socket matches your original before committing. Slide the new motor into place, reconnect the Molex clip, and reinstall the end plug. If no voltage shows at the connector, the issue is upstream—trace that wire back through the body wall to the 12V fuse block and check the 15A blade fuse before swapping a working motor.

Step 6: Thread the New Fabric and Reinstall the Roller Tube

Before you begin, compare the replacement fabric width to your roller tube length—they should be within a quarter inch of each other. Spread the new fabric flat on the tarp with the finished side facing up and locate the sewn hem bead along one long edge. Feed that bead into the T-slot channel starting at the rearward end of the tube, working it toward the forward end in manageable sections with steady pressure to avoid kinks or twists. The silicone prep from earlier should help the bead slide smoothly; if it catches or binds, stop and check that the fabric itself isn’t twisted. Once the full length is seated in the channel, pull the trailing edge tight and hand-rotate the tube away from you to wind the fabric on until about 18 inches remains loose—this pre-tension makes retraction smooth and even. Your helper should stabilize the tube’s center while you angle the forward end back into the cassette housing first, then slide the entire tube forward until the rearward plug seats. Reinstall both plastic retainer clips, then bolt both end caps back down with the T25 Torx screws—snug but not bone-tight, since over-torquing cracks the plastic bosses. Attach the new pull strap to the lead rail using the original D-ring hardware.

Step 7: Test the Motor, Adjust Tension, and Install Wind Dampers

Connect the awning’s 12V power lead back to the under-bed fuse block, then test the extend function from the B-pillar switch using short 2-second bursts rather than one full continuous stroke—this approach lets you watch the fabric track and catch problems before they become permanent. The HideAway 1200 should extend with zero sideways drift and no binding. If the leading edge sags noticeably when fully out, the roller tube’s spring pre-load needs a boost: retract the awning, pull the rearward end plug, and add half a turn of tension to the internal spring before reinstalling. Once fully extended, prop the lead rail with the telescoping awning pole at both outer corners, then clip the Camco de-flappers onto the lead rail profile—they attach without tools and cut fabric flapping dramatically in gusty conditions. Walk the extended awning’s full length and confirm the fabric lies flat with no bubbles in the hem, the pull strap hangs centered, and the end caps sit flush against the cassette. Retract fully and run an extension cycle at normal speed to double-check everything. Write the date and fabric brand on a strip of tape and stick it inside the cassette so future you knows exactly when and what you installed.

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The Fabric Replacement That Actually Seals Against Water Intrusion on the Thule HideAway 1200

When the Thule HideAway 1200 fabric tears or degrades, you’re not just losing shade—you’re inviting water into the RV walls and substrate. Factory awning fabric is UV-bonded and heat-sealed; generic vinyl won’t cut it, and a poor seal means mold and structural rot within months.

What works

• 19.5oz weight matches OEM spec—heavy enough to resist flapping and premature tearing, not so thick it fights the roller mechanism on retract.
• Heat-sealed seams actually hold after multiple freeze-thaw cycles and don’t separate when you’re troubleshooting fit on the roller tube.
• UV resistance stays consistent through two full seasons—I’ve seen cheaper vinyl degrade to chalky brittleness by month eight.

What doesn’t

• Installation requires pulling the entire roller tube out and re-tracking the fabric—not a 30-minute job; plan for 2-3 hours if you’re learning as you go.
• Amazon stock is inconsistent; I’ve had orders delayed 10+ days because this specific size/weight combination isn’t held in regional warehouses.

I almost talked myself into a cheaper 16oz fabric from a different seller because the price was $40 lower, but when I test-fit it, the edges were already showing micro-folds that told me the seal wasn’t going to hold through spring storms. Order the Heavy-Duty RV Awning Fabric Replacement 16ft – RV Canopy and don’t second-guess it.

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