Roof Leak Repair and Resealing for WINNEBAGO MINNIE WINNIE
This comprehensive guide will walk you through repairing roof leak repair and resealing on your WINNEBAGO MINNIE WINNIE. Follow each step carefully and gather all required parts before beginning.
Required Parts
- Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant – Part Number: RP-CRC-1 (White) or RP-CRC-ST (Silver/Gray), Quantity: 2-3 tubes for complete roof, Price Range: $12-$18 per tube
- Eternabond RoofSeal Tape – Part Number: RSW-4-50 (4″ x 50′), Alternative widths: 2″, 6″, 12″ available, Price Range: $45-$150 depending on size
- Rubber roof cleaner – Part Number: Dicor RP-RC-1GL, Price Range: $20-$30 per gallon
- Putty knife and caulking gun
- Roof coating (optional for full restoration) – Part Number: Dicor RP-CRP-1 (Elastomeric Coating), Coverage: 1 gallon per 150 sq ft
- Primer for EPDM or TPO roofs – Part Number: Dicor RP-CRP-P
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Leak Detection and Documentation
Roof leaks in Class C RVs are insidious problems that often go undetected until significant interior damage has occurred, making early detection and repair critical for preventing costly structural damage. Begin your leak investigation inside the RV during or immediately after a rainstorm, systematically checking every corner of the ceiling, all light fixtures, overhead cabinets, and especially around air conditioner(s) and roof vent areas. Look for telltale signs including water stains (brown or yellow discoloration), soft spots when you press gently on the ceiling, peeling wallpaper or fabric, visible water droplets, or the musty smell of mold and mildew. Use a flashlight to inspect inside overhead cabinets and behind light fixtures. Document every suspected leak location with photos and create a simple map marking each potential entry point. Remember that water can travel laterally along the roof structure before appearing inside, so the visible leak may be several feet away from the actual roof penetration.
Step 2: Exterior Roof Inspection and Preparation
On a dry, calm day with temperatures between 50-90°F (ideal for sealant curing), safely access your RV roof using a sturdy ladder with stabilizer bars. Never attempt roof work in windy conditions or on wet surfaces. The Winnebago Minnie Winnie typically features a rubber EPDM or TPO membrane roof, which can be walked on but requires care to avoid damage – wear soft-soled shoes and avoid kneeling on sharp objects. Begin a methodical inspection starting from the front and working toward the rear, paying special attention to every penetration point: air conditioners, roof vents, plumbing vents, antenna mounts, ladder brackets, and especially the front cap area where the fiberglass cab-over section meets the roof membrane. Check every visible seam, examining the old sealant for cracks, gaps, pulling away from the surface, or deterioration (indicated by becoming brittle or chalky). Mark every problem area with masking tape so you won’t miss any during repair.
Step 3: Cleaning and Surface Preparation
Proper surface preparation is absolutely critical for new sealant to adhere correctly and provide long-lasting waterproof protection. Using a dedicated rubber roof cleaner (like Dicor RP-RC-1GL), thoroughly clean the entire area around each repair location, extending at least 6 inches beyond the damaged sealant on all sides. Follow the product’s directions carefully, typically involving application with a soft brush or cloth, allowing the cleaner to dwell for 5-10 minutes to break down old oxidation and road film, then rinsing thoroughly with clean water. For stubborn residue or old sealant that must be removed, use a plastic putty knife – never use metal tools that can tear or puncture the roof membrane. Allow all cleaned areas to dry completely (typically 2-4 hours depending on temperature and humidity) before applying any new sealant. Any remaining moisture will prevent proper adhesion and compromise the repair.
Step 4: Removing Failed Sealant
For areas where sealant has completely failed or pulled away from the surface, you must remove the old material before applying new sealant to ensure a proper bond. Using a plastic putty knife or dedicated sealant removal tool, carefully scrape away all old, loose sealant, working slowly and methodically to avoid damaging the underlying roof membrane or the components you’re trying to seal. For particularly stubborn old sealant that has hardened and bonded firmly, a commercial adhesive remover designed for RV use can help soften the material, making removal easier. However, test any chemical remover on an inconspicuous area first to ensure it doesn’t damage your specific roof material. Once all old sealant is removed, clean the area again with roof cleaner to remove any oily residue from the old sealant. If you discover any tears, punctures, or severe degradation of the roof membrane itself during this process, these areas will require Eternabond tape repair before sealing.
Step 5: Applying Eternabond Tape to Damaged Areas
Eternabond RoofSeal tape is a professional-grade, pressure-sensitive sealing tape that creates a permanent, weatherproof seal over roof damage. For any cracks, tears, or severely degraded areas of the roof membrane, Eternabond tape should be applied before using lap sealant. Measure and cut the tape to extend at least 2 inches beyond the damaged area on all sides – a 4″ wide tape is suitable for most repair areas. Peel back about 2 inches of the release liner, position the tape precisely over the damaged area, and press firmly to adhere. Gradually peel away more of the release liner while pressing down the tape, working from one end to the other to avoid trapping air bubbles. Once positioned, use a J-roller or hand roller to apply firm, even pressure across the entire surface of the tape, ensuring complete adhesion. Pay special attention to the edges, as these are the most vulnerable to lifting.
Step 6: Applying Lap Sealant to Seams and Penetrations
Dicor self-leveling lap sealant is specifically formulated for RV roof applications and remains flexible through extreme temperature changes, making it ideal for sealing roof penetrations and seams. Load a tube of sealant into a high-quality caulking gun and cut the applicator tip at a 45-degree angle to create an opening approximately 3/8″ wide. Starting with the roof vents and other penetrations, apply a generous bead of sealant completely around the base of each fixture, ensuring the new sealant overlaps any existing sound sealant by at least 1/2 inch. Don’t skimp on sealant – a proper bead should be approximately 1/4″ thick and 3/4″ wide when applied. Work methodically around each penetration, maintaining consistent pressure on the caulking gun trigger for even flow. For air conditioner units, pay special attention to all four corners where the unit meets the roof, as these corners are prime leak locations.
Step 7: Sealing Roof Seams and Final Inspection
The rubber roof membrane of the Winnebago Minnie Winnie is typically installed in sections, creating seams that run lengthwise along the roof. These seams are factory-sealed but can deteriorate over time, requiring re-sealing to prevent water intrusion. Apply lap sealant along the entire length of each seam, creating a bead that covers the seam plus approximately 1 inch on each side of the seam line. Pay extra attention to where seams intersect or end, as these junction points are particularly vulnerable to leaks. Don’t forget the front cap area where the fiberglass cab-over section meets the rubber roof – this transition joint experiences significant movement while driving and requires a thick, flexible seal. After applying all new sealant, step back and visually inspect your work from multiple angles, looking for any missed spots, thin areas, or air bubbles. The sealant will self-level within 24 hours, but avoid driving or any roof access during this curing period. Plan to inspect and reseal your roof annually for maximum longevity.