LANCE 1985 - Slide-Out Seal Replacement

LANCE 1985 – Slide-Out Seal Replacement

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Complete repair guide for the LANCE 1985 – Slide-Out Seal Replacement.

Parts & Tools You’ll Need

Step 1: Diagnose Seal Condition and Prep Workspace

Start by fully extending the slide-out and visually inspecting all three seal types for cracks, hardening, separation from the frame, or water damage. Look for water stains on interior walls, soft spots in the floor near the slide-out, or visible gaps between the seal and frame that exceed 1/8 inch. Close the slide-out completely and measure the seal compression—you should feel moderate resistance, not a hard snap or loose play. Set up a clean, dry work area with good lighting and lay out all your tools, new seals, and adhesive products before beginning removal.

Step 2: Remove Old D-Seal and Wiper Seal

Using your Pry Tool from the trim panel removal set, carefully work the old AP Products D-Seal away from the slide-out frame, starting at a corner and moving slowly to avoid gouging the aluminum extrusion. The D-Seal should pull free with steady pressure once the adhesive bond breaks; if resistance is extreme, apply heat from a heat gun (set to 200°F) for 30 seconds to soften the old sealant. Next, remove the Slide-Out Top Wiper Seal by peeling it back from the top track—this seal typically sits in a shallow groove and should come away without requiring adhesive softening. Wipe down all exposed frame surfaces with a clean cloth to remove old seal fragments and residual adhesive.

Step 3: Clean and Prep Seal Installation Surfaces

Thoroughly clean the D-Seal channel, wiper seal groove, and compression bulb track using rubbing alcohol and lint-free cloths; any residual adhesive or debris will prevent proper seal seating and compromise water resistance. Pay special attention to corners and crevices where old sealant tends to accumulate—use a plastic scraper to gently dislodge stubborn material without scratching the frame. Allow all surfaces to dry completely (minimum 10 minutes in normal conditions) before proceeding, as moisture will interfere with adhesive bond strength. Inspect the frame for any corrosion, dents, or damage; minor surface corrosion should be lightly sanded and wiped clean, but deep corrosion requires frame repair before seal installation.

Step 4: Install New D-Seal with Proper Adhesive Application

Measure the D-Seal channel perimeter and cut your AP Products D-Seal to exact length, using a sharp utility knife with a 45-degree angle cut at all corners for seamless joining. Apply a continuous bead of 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive along the D-Seal channel—approximately 1/4-inch width and 1/8-inch depth—and press the new D-Seal firmly into place, starting at one corner and working around the frame. Use the Seal Corner Connector Kit at all four corners to ensure tight, watertight connections; these connectors overlap the seal ends and should be glued with the same weatherstrip adhesive. Allow adhesive to set for 24 hours before operating the slide-out, as premature movement can disrupt the seal bond and create water leak paths.

Step 5: Install Top Wiper Seal and Bottom Compression Bulb

Position the Slide-Out Top Wiper Seal in its groove and apply 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to the back surface, pressing firmly from one end to the other while maintaining consistent seating depth in the groove. The wiper seal should sit flush with no twists or folds; if you notice bunching, stop, remove the section, clean off adhesive, and reposition. For the Slide-Out Bottom Compression Bulb Seal, apply Silicone Structural Adhesive Sealant (not weatherstrip adhesive) to the bulb base, as this heavy-duty sealant provides superior compression resistance. Install the compression bulb with the bulb portion facing downward toward the frame lip, pressing and holding for 60 seconds to establish initial set.

Step 6: Verify Seal Alignment and Compression Integrity

Gently extend and retract the slide-out (without fully opening or closing to avoid stressing fresh adhesive) while observing each seal’s behavior—all seals should compress evenly without bunching, twisting, or separating from the frame. Check that the compression bulb maintains contact with the frame lip throughout the slide-out’s travel range; use a flashlight to inspect the bottom and sides while the slide-out is at mid-extension. Verify that the wiper seal leaves no gaps or water entry points and that the D-Seal maintains consistent contact pressure around all perimeter sections. If you notice any seals pulling away or compressing unevenly, do not operate further; the adhesive requires the full 24-hour cure period.

Step 7: Final Testing and Protective Conditioning

After adhesive has fully cured (24 hours minimum), perform a complete cycle test: fully extend the slide-out, hold for 30 seconds, then fully retract and hold for 30 seconds while monitoring for smooth operation and listening for any unusual sounds or resistance. Spray the entire slide-out seal perimeter with clean water while the slide-out is fully extended to verify no water penetrates the interior; check all corners and edges particularly closely. Apply Rubber Seal Conditioner Protectant to all new seals to improve flexibility and UV resistance; this step extends seal life and maintains optimal compression properties. Document the service date on a maintenance log inside your Lance 1985’s manual—seal replacement typically lasts 5-7 years depending on climate and storage conditions.