LANCE 1985 – Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

I’m standing over the water heater compartment on this 1985 Lance right now with my headlamp pointed straight at the tank nipple, running my fingers along the corroded stub where the anode rod used to be. What’s left of it—maybe a quarter inch of pitted magnesium—tells me exactly why the owner’s been complaining about rust-colored hot water and that unmistakable rotten-egg smell. This is textbook neglect, and it’s also textbook fixable. The anode rod sacrifices itself to corrosion so the steel tank beneath stays intact; once it’s depleted, the tank becomes the target. I’ve seen owners panic and order a whole new water heater when what they actually need is a twenty-minute swap and a thirty-dollar part. The difference between catching this now and waiting another season is the difference between a roadside repair and a full tank replacement that’ll cost you four figures and leave you without hot water for days. Let me walk you through exactly what you’re looking for, how to pull the old one, and why getting ahead of this on your Lance 1985 is non-negotiable.

Why That Corroded Anode Rod Is Making Your Hot Water Smell Like Sulfur

The anode rod is engineered to corrode first so your tank doesn’t—it’s sitting there taking the hit while your water stays clean. When it’s consumed completely, the corrosion process flips and starts eating the tank itself instead. On your 1985 Lance, that transition shows up as brown discharge and that unmistakable sulfur stench. A replacement rod stops that damage dead and gives you years of clean, odor-free hot water again—if you catch it in time.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement anode rod sized for your water heater tank (9.25″ length with 3/4″ NPT connection is standard for many RV tanks; verify your tank’s spec before ordering) — check current price
• Adjustable wrench or socket set sized to fit the hex nut on the anode rod nipple (typically 1-1/4″ or 1-1/2″)
• Bucket or shallow pan to catch residual water and sediment from the tank opening
• Headlamp or flashlight for visibility inside the water heater compartment
• Teflon tape or plumber’s thread sealant for the new rod’s NPT connection

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Turn off the water heater and depressurize the tank

Switch the water heater to off at the control panel or breaker. Open the hot water tap at your nearest sink and let it run for 10–15 seconds to relieve pressure inside the tank. This prevents a spray of hot water when you unscrew the anode rod. Close the tap once flow stops. Wait 5 minutes for any residual heat to dissipate before proceeding.

Step 2: Locate and photograph the anode rod nipple

Find the water heater compartment on your 1985 Lance—typically an exterior cabinet or under-bed access. Look for a short metal nipple protruding from the top of the tank with a hex nut. Photograph this connection and the surrounding area before you touch anything. Note the orientation and any visible corrosion. This reference helps you install the new rod correctly and confirms you’re working on the right component.

Step 3: Remove the corroded anode rod

Position your bucket under the nipple to catch water drips. Using an adjustable wrench or socket, grip the hex nut firmly and turn counterclockwise. Expect resistance—corrosion often locks the nut in place. Turn slowly and steadily; if it won’t budge after moderate pressure, apply penetrating oil and wait 10 minutes, then try again. Once loose, unscrew by hand and carefully withdraw the old rod. Expect sediment and discolored water to spill into your bucket.

Step 4: Inspect the tank nipple and clean the threads

Examine the exposed nipple for damage, cracks, or heavy corrosion. If the nipple is intact, wipe the threads clean with a dry cloth to remove sediment and old tape residue. If the nipple is cracked or leaking, the tank itself may be compromised—stop here and consult a technician. For a clean nipple, you’re ready to install the replacement rod.

Step 5: Wrap the new anode rod with thread sealant

Take your new anode rod and wrap the NPT threads (the tapered end that screws into the nipple) with 3–4 layers of Teflon tape, wrapping clockwise. Alternatively, apply a thin bead of plumber’s thread sealant to the threads. This prevents leaks at the connection. Do not over-apply—excess tape or sealant can interfere with a tight seal.

Step 6: Install the new anode rod and tighten securely

Carefully thread the new rod into the nipple by hand, turning clockwise until you feel resistance. Once hand-tight, use your wrench to turn the hex nut an additional quarter to half turn. Do not over-tighten—excessive force can strip the threads or crack the nipple. The connection should be snug but not forced. Wipe away any excess sealant with a cloth.

Step 7: Refill the tank and test for leaks

Turn the water heater back on and open the hot water tap at your sink. Let water run for 20–30 seconds to purge air from the lines. Close the tap and check the anode rod connection for drips or seepage. If water leaks from the hex nut, tighten it slightly more. Once dry, your replacement is complete. Run hot water for a few minutes and confirm the water runs clear without odor or discoloration.

What works

• Brown water and foul odors vanish on the first heating cycle once you’ve installed a fresh rod—your entire hot water supply clears up almost immediately.
• Buying a 2-pack leaves you with a backup rod already on hand, so when the next one burns out three to five years down the line, you’re not stranded searching for parts in the middle of nowhere.
• The 9.25″ dimension and 3/4″ NPT connection thread directly into your Suburban heater with zero modifications—no adapters, no plumbing workarounds, just a straight install.

What doesn’t

• If the tank itself has already rusted through and developed pinhole leaks, a new anode rod becomes irrelevant—you’re looking at tank replacement once the damage goes that far.
• Annual inspections and replacement every 2–5 years depending on your water hardness aren’t optional maintenance—if you skip this and then blame the rod for failing in 18 months, you’ve missed the whole point of the system.

I’ve pulled corroded stubs out of 1985 Lances where the original rod hadn’t been touched since delivery, and I almost convinced myself the tank was dead until I cleaned the sediment and realized the steel underneath was still intact. Grab the RV Water Heater Anode Rod 2-Pack, 2 Years Warranty – 9.25″ x 3/4″ NPT Premium Magnesium Rv hot water heater anode rod, Suburban RV Water Heater Parts, Long-Lasting Protection and start with this cheap diagnosis.