LANCE 1985 - Water Heater Anode Rod ReplacementSave

LANCE 1985 – Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

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The most expensive mistake RV owners make is replacing parts before they’ve diagnosed the actual problem. I’ve walked up to rigs where the owner has already swapped three components and the real issue is something a five-dollar fuse or a loose connector would have fixed. Diagnosis first. Always diagnosis first. With the Lance 1985 water heater, I see this play out constantly — owners chasing rusty, foul-smelling hot water with full tank replacements when a neglected or failed anode rod is almost always the culprit, and a fresh one costs next to nothing. The anode rod is a sacrificial component designed to corrode so your tank doesn’t, and when it’s gone, that corrosion starts eating into the steel itself — at which point you’re no longer talking about a twenty-minute roadside fix, you’re talking about a water heater that’s headed for the scrap pile. I’ve put this guide together based on actual hands-on work with this unit so you know exactly what you’re pulling out, what you’re looking for, and how to do it right the first time.

Parts & Tools You’ll Need

Step 1: Diagnose Water Heater and Gather Tools

Before starting, locate your Lance 1985’s water heater—typically mounted in the wet bay on the driver’s side. Check the serial number on the tank to confirm whether you have a 6-gallon or 10-gallon unit, as this determines which anode rod you’ll need. Inspect the tank exterior for any white crusty buildup, corrosion spots, or previous leak evidence, which indicates the anode rod has been doing its job and needs replacement. Gather all necessary tools including the 1-1/16″ Deep Socket Wrench, Plumber’s Teflon Tape, your selected anode rod (Suburban Magnesium for 6-gallon tanks is standard for this model), and a bucket for water drainage.

Step 2: Shut Down Systems and Drain Tank Water

Turn off your water heater’s propane or electric power source at the main panel and allow the tank to cool for at least 2 hours—the water inside will be dangerously hot. Close the fresh water inlet valve to prevent water from entering the tank during the process. Locate the Water Heater Drain Valve (1/2″ NPT) at the tank’s lowest point and attach a hose directed into your bucket or gray tank dump location. Open the drain valve fully and allow all water to evacuate; this typically takes 10-15 minutes and is essential for safe anode rod removal.

Step 3: Remove Old Anode Rod from Tank

Locate the anode rod port at the top of the water heater tank—you’ll see a large hex head bolt protruding from the tank cap. Fit your 1-1/16″ Deep Socket Wrench firmly onto this bolt and turn counterclockwise with steady, even pressure; expect significant resistance since mineral deposits may have adhered the rod. Once loosened, you can continue turning by hand, but be prepared for residual water to drip as you withdraw the old rod. Carefully pull the old anode rod straight out and set it aside; if it’s severely pitted or has less than 1/8″ of material remaining, you’ve confirmed it was protecting the tank effectively.

Step 4: Clean Tank Interior and Inspect

With the anode rod removed and tank empty, use the Camco TastePURE Water Heater Tank Rinser to flush out sediment buildup inside the tank. Follow the rinser’s instructions by connecting it to your RV’s fresh water system and running it through the drain valve until the water runs clear—this removes mineral deposits and extends tank life. While rinsing, visually inspect the interior opening for any corrosion, pitting, or dark spots that might indicate tank deterioration. This maintenance step is crucial for annual care and should take 5-10 minutes of flushing.

Step 5: Install New Anode Rod with Proper Sealing

Wrap 3-4 layers of Plumber’s Teflon Tape clockwise around the threads of your new anode rod (either Suburban Magnesium or Atwood brand, depending on your tank model). Insert the new rod straight into the tank port by hand first, then use your 1-1/16″ Deep Socket Wrench to tighten the hex head bolt. Tighten to 20-25 foot-pounds of torque—snug and secure but not over-tightened, which can crack the tank fitting. Ensure the rod sits fully seated in the tank with no gaps visible at the connection point.

Step 6: Refill Tank and Restore Water Pressure

Close the drain valve completely using a quarter-turn or valve wrench, then open the fresh water inlet valve to allow the tank to refill slowly. Watch for any drips or leaks around the anode rod connection—small weeps indicate the Teflon tape may need additional wraps; stop and re-wrap if necessary. Allow the tank to fill completely, which you’ll notice when water stops draining from the lowest faucet in your RV. Check all connections one final time for any moisture or seepage before proceeding to system verification.

Step 7: Test Heater Function and Verify System

Turn the water heater back on (propane or electric mode) and allow it 30 minutes to reach operating temperature while monitoring for any unusual odors or sounds. Turn on a hot water faucet at the trailer sink and verify hot water flows normally without sputtering, discoloration, or metallic taste—this confirms the tank is properly sealed and filled. Check the anode rod connection one more time for any leaks, paying special attention to the hex bolt and fitting. Document the replacement in your maintenance log with the date and rod type installed, as this helps you track the 3-5 year replacement cycle typical for anode rods in freshwater tanks.