LANCE 1985 – Water Heater Anode Rod Replacement

I’m standing over the water heater compartment on this 1985 Lance right now with my headlamp pointed straight at the tank nipple, running my fingers along the corroded stub where the anode rod used to be. What’s left of it—maybe a quarter inch of pitted magnesium—tells me exactly why the owner’s been complaining about rust-colored hot water and that unmistakable rotten-egg smell. This is textbook neglect, and it’s also textbook fixable. The anode rod sacrifices itself to corrosion so the steel tank beneath stays intact; once it’s depleted, the tank becomes the target. I’ve seen owners panic and order a whole new water heater when what they actually need is a twenty-minute swap and a thirty-dollar part. The difference between catching this now and waiting another season is the difference between a roadside repair and a full tank replacement that’ll cost you four figures and leave you without hot water for days. Let me walk you through exactly what you’re looking for, how to pull the old one, and why getting ahead of this on your Lance 1985 is non-negotiable.

Why That Corroded Anode Rod Is Making Your Hot Water Smell Like Sulfur

The anode rod is engineered to corrode first so your tank doesn’t—it’s sitting there taking the hit while your water stays clean. When it’s consumed completely, the corrosion process flips and starts eating the tank itself instead. On your 1985 Lance, that transition shows up as brown discharge and that unmistakable sulfur stench. A replacement rod stops that damage dead and gives you years of clean, odor-free hot water again—if you catch it in time.

What works

• Brown water and foul odors vanish on the first heating cycle once you’ve installed a fresh rod—your entire hot water supply clears up almost immediately.
• Buying a 2-pack leaves you with a backup rod already on hand, so when the next one burns out three to five years down the line, you’re not stranded searching for parts in the middle of nowhere.
• The 9.25″ dimension and 3/4″ NPT connection thread directly into your Suburban heater with zero modifications—no adapters, no plumbing workarounds, just a straight install.

What doesn’t

• If the tank itself has already rusted through and developed pinhole leaks, a new anode rod becomes irrelevant—you’re looking at tank replacement once the damage goes that far.
• Annual inspections and replacement every 2–5 years depending on your water hardness aren’t optional maintenance—if you skip this and then blame the rod for failing in 18 months, you’ve missed the whole point of the system.

I’ve pulled corroded stubs out of 1985 Lances where the original rod hadn’t been touched since delivery, and I almost convinced myself the tank was dead until I cleaned the sediment and realized the steel underneath was still intact. Grab the RV Water Heater Anode Rod 2-Pack, 2 Years Warranty – 9.25″ x 3/4″ NPT Premium Magnesium Rv hot water heater anode rod, Suburban RV Water Heater Parts, Long-Lasting Protection and start with this cheap diagnosis.

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