Complete repair guide for the American Coach American Eagle – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement. Follow these steps to diagnose and fix the issue yourself.
Parts & Tools You’ll Need
- Suburban RP-35Q 35,000 BTU/h RV Replacement Core for Suburban Furnace Series SF-35, SF-35Q, SF-42, SF-42Q, and SF-Q (2609A) — Suburban/Atwood RV furnace (replacement unit)
- Fit For Suburban RV Furnace Parts 232286,Single Probe Gas Furnace Igniters Electrode with Wire Assembly, Camper Furnace For Suburban 232286 Above 934701426 SF-20, SF-25, SF-30, SF-35 (SF Series) — Furnace igniter electrode
- DTAIR 33082 Sail Switch Replacement for Select Dometic Atwood RV Furnace(Pack of 2) — Furnace sail switch
- 520814 Rv Water Heater Module Board Ignition Control Circuit Board Compatible with Suburban Furnace SW4D, SW6D, SW6DE, SW12D, SW6DEM RV Water Heaters,Replace 520814 520820 520871 33550L (With lid) — Furnace circuit board / control board
- DTAIR 33082 Sail Switch Replacement for Select Dometic Atwood RV Furnace(Pack of 2) — Furnace high-limit switch
- Suburban 232684 RV Furnace 12v SF-Series DC Blower Motor, SF-35, SF-35F, SVF-35, SF-42, SF-42F OEM Caliber — Furnace blower motor (12V DC)
- RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Gas Alarm, Briidea Dual LP/CO Detector with Separate LED Indicator Light, 100dB Loud Alarm, 12 VDC, Black — Propane/CO combo detector alarm
- FKM Pro Digital Multimeter Tester TRMS 6000 Counts,Smart Rechargeable Voltmeter 5″Color LCD,Auto-Ranging Automotive Multimeters,for AC/DC Current/Voltage,NCV,Ohm,Capacitance,Resistance,Continuity,Temp — Digital multimeter
Step 1: Diagnose Furnace Ignition Failure
Start by confirming the furnace won’t ignite when the thermostat calls for heat. Listen for the blower motor running and check if you hear clicking at the burner—this indicates the igniter electrode isn’t firing. Use your digital multimeter to test for 12V DC power at the igniter electrode connector; if voltage is present but the furnace still won’t light, the igniter electrode has failed and needs replacement. If there’s no voltage reaching the igniter, the control board is likely the culprit.
Step 2: Shut Down Power and Propane Supply
Turn off the RV’s main 12V battery disconnect switch and close the manual shut-off valve on your propane tank. Wait at least 5 minutes to ensure all residual propane pressure dissipates from the furnace lines. This critical safety step prevents gas leaks and potential explosions while you’re working on the igniter and control board components.
Step 3: Access the Furnace Interior Components
Remove the furnace cover panel by unbolting the 4-5 fasteners along the edges using an appropriate socket or wrench. Carefully lift the cover away and set it aside, noting the position of any wiring harnesses connected to the control board. Take a photo of the existing wire configuration before disconnecting anything—this serves as your reference guide during reassembly and prevents miswiring errors.
Step 4: Replace the Igniter Electrode Assembly
Locate the igniter electrode mounted near the burner chamber; it’s a ceramic-tipped component protruding into the combustion area. Disconnect the spade connector from the electrode lead and unbolt the mounting bracket (typically 1-2 bolts). Install the new furnace igniter electrode, ensuring the ceramic tip is positioned 1/8 inch away from the burner electrode and reconnect the spade connector firmly until it clicks—a loose connection will prevent spark generation.
Step 5: Install the New Furnace Control Board
Unplug all wire harnesses from the old circuit board by gently pulling the connectors straight out—note which connectors attach to the igniter lead, sail switch, blower motor, and 12V power source. Remove the mounting bolts securing the board to the furnace frame and install the new furnace circuit board in the identical position. Reconnect all harnesses in the same configuration using your reference photo, ensuring each connector seats fully with an audible click.
Step 6: Verify All Safety Switches and Connections
Check that the furnace sail switch (the safety switch that prevents the igniter from firing when the blower isn’t running) is properly connected and moves freely with no obstructions. Inspect the high-limit switch wiring to confirm it’s still secure—this component shuts down the furnace if internal temperature exceeds 190°F. Test all electrical connectors with your multimeter by checking for continuity through the wiring harness, confirming resistance is below 1 ohm at each connection point.
Step 7: Test Ignition and Verify Proper Operation
Restore 12V power by switching the battery disconnect back on, then reopen the propane tank valve and wait 30 seconds for pressure to stabilize. Set your thermostat 5 degrees above the current interior temperature to trigger a heating cycle, and listen for the distinctive clicking spark from the igniter electrode followed by the whoosh of propane ignition within 5 seconds. Once the furnace stabilizes and the blower motor is running at full speed, check that warm air flows from your heating vents and verify the Propane/CO combo detector alarm shows no fault codes.