DUTCHMEN ASPEN TRAIL 2060BH – LP Gas Detector Replacement

What’s the one safety device in your Aspen Trail that you never think about until it either screams at you at 3 a.m. or stops working entirely? Your LP gas detector—and when one of those two things happens, you’re facing either sleep deprivation or an actual risk to your family. I’ve pulled plenty of failed detectors out of rigs over the years, and I’ve also been the guy lying in a bunk at midnight wondering if the alarm is real or false. The LP gas detector protecting your Dutchmen Aspen Trail 2060BH sits quietly in its bracket, monitoring propane feeds to your furnace, stove, and water heater—until age, dust, or a manufacturing glitch causes it to fail. The good news: swapping it out yourself takes maybe thirty minutes, costs far less than a service call, and puts you back in control of your own safety. This is how I approached it on my rig, step by step.

The Briidea Dual Detector That Actually Fits the Aspen Trail’s Factory Mounting Bracket

Your 2060BH’s original LP detector will eventually quit on you—either it stops alerting altogether, or it develops a habit of false alarms that kill your sleep and your confidence in the system—and when that happens, you need a drop-in replacement that respects the existing 12 VDC hardwire setup and doesn’t force you to rip apart your cabinets rewiring everything from scratch.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement LP/CO dual detector unit matching the 12 VDC hardwire connector and mounting bracket footprint of your original detector — check current price
• Flashlight or headlamp for visibility inside the cabinet or wall cavity where the detector is mounted
• Small flathead screwdriver for releasing the wire terminals on the old detector and securing them on the new one
• Wire strippers if the existing hardwire leads show damage or corrosion and need fresh stripped ends
• Electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing to insulate any exposed wire connections after installation
• Multimeter set to DC voltage to verify 12 VDC is present at the detector terminals before and after installation

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Kill power to the detector circuit at the main panel

Locate your Aspen Trail’s 12 VDC distribution panel, usually mounted in a cabinet near the entry or in the galley. Find the breaker or fuse labeled for the LP detector or safety system. Switch it off or remove the fuse. Wait thirty seconds, then use your multimeter to confirm zero voltage at the detector terminals. This prevents accidental short circuits and protects you while handling live wiring.

Step 2: Photograph the wire connections and remove the old detector

Before touching anything, take a clear photo of how the red and black (or positive and negative) wires connect to your old detector’s terminals. This is your safety net. Locate the detector—typically mounted on an interior wall near the kitchen or bedroom. Use a small flathead screwdriver to loosen the terminal screws and gently pull the wires free. Note any corrosion or damage on the wire ends; you may need to strip fresh copper.

Step 3: Inspect the mounting bracket and wire condition

Examine the bracket holding your old detector. Check for cracks, loose fasteners, or signs of heat damage. Look at the exposed wires for cracks in insulation, discoloration, or brittleness. If the wires are corroded or damaged, use wire strippers to remove about half an inch of insulation from each end to expose fresh copper. A clean, solid connection is critical for reliable operation.

Step 4: Install the new detector into the bracket

Slide the new detector into the existing bracket, aligning the body and connector as you go. The unit should sit flush without forcing. If it doesn’t fit smoothly, do not force it—check that you have the correct replacement model. Once seated, secure any mounting screws or clips that hold it in place. Verify the detector body is level and stable before moving to wiring.

Step 5: Connect the hardwire leads to the new detector

Using your photograph as a guide, insert the red (positive) wire into the positive terminal and the black (negative) wire into the negative terminal. Tighten each terminal screw firmly with your screwdriver—loose connections cause intermittent failures. If you stripped fresh wire ends, ensure no bare copper is exposed outside the terminal. Wrap any exposed connections with electrical tape or heat-shrink tubing.

Step 6: Restore power and test the detector

Return to your 12 VDC panel and switch the breaker back on or reinstall the fuse. Use your multimeter to confirm 12 VDC is now present at the detector. Most dual detectors have a test button on the face; press it and listen for a loud alarm tone. If the alarm sounds clearly and the light indicator activates, the detector is functioning. If nothing happens, turn power off immediately and recheck your wire connections.

Step 7: Verify operation with a propane sniff test

Once the detector powers up and self-test passes, perform a real-world check. Open your propane stove briefly—just enough to release a small amount of gas into the cabin. The detector should alarm within seconds. If it does, close the stove and silence the alarm by pressing the reset button. If it does not alarm, turn off propane at the tank, kill power to the detector, and recheck all connections. A silent detector is a liability.

What works

• Slides into your existing Dutchmen bracket with zero modification needed; connector and body outline match the detector you’re removing so hard-won factory alignment stays intact.
• Covers both propane and carbon monoxide hazards in one unit—no need to juggle separate sensors, and a 100dB signal is loud enough to jolt you awake if something goes wrong while you’re sleeping.
• Hardwired to 12 VDC power straight from coach battery with no battery backup complication; stays dormant when everything is normal and only makes noise when you need to hear it.

What doesn’t

• The standalone LED status light that’s pictured in the listing doesn’t always ship with the connector pigtail you need—you may end up having to hunt down the extension separately or wire it directly yourself if you want it functional.
• Prime shipping gets it to you in 2-4 weeks; if you’re on a timeline and need this live before the weekend, expedited shipping can double your cost on a component that’s already a budget item.

I second-guessed whether the 12 VDC hardwire would actually integrate without splicing into the old harness — turns out it does, but I spent an hour testing polarity before I trusted the connection. Grab the Safe T Alert – Mini Dual LP/CO Alarm – Flush Mount Black – and don’t cheap out on the install — this is safety hardware, not a novelty.