Entegra Accolade – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement

RV repairs are either thirty minutes or three days — there’s rarely an in-between. The difference is almost always whether you understand the system before you start, whether you have the right tools, and whether you ordered the correct part the first time. I’ve learned all three lessons the hard way, multiple times. The furnace on an Entegra Accolade looks intimidating, but it almost always fails in one of two places: the igniter or the control board — and knowing which one before you pull anything apart is what separates a quick turnaround from a week of cold nights and a parts-supplier phone tag nightmare. I’ve flipped enough of these coaches to know that a furnace that clicks but won’t light, or one that’s completely dead on startup, is almost never the propane supply — it’s one of those two components, and this guide will walk you through diagnosing and replacing both the right way.

Diagnosing the Problem: Is It the Igniter or the Control Board?

Before you crack open your furnace, spend five minutes listening. This is the difference between a one-hour fix and three days of troubleshooting.

Turn on the furnace and pay attention to what happens. If you hear rapid clicking coming from inside the combustion chamber — that distinctive spark-plug sound repeating several times per second — then your igniter is failing or dead. The control board is sending the signal; the igniter just can’t produce a spark hot enough to catch the propane. This is your most common failure and the easiest to fix.

If the furnace is completely silent — no clicking, no relay chatter, nothing — then you’re almost certainly looking at a control board failure. The board isn’t even trying to fire the igniter. That’s a different repair, and we’ll cover both.

A third scenario: you hear clicking for 10–15 seconds, then it stops and the burner never lights. Your control board is timing out because it’s not sensing a flame. This could be the igniter (no spark) or a bad flame sensor, but on an Accolade, it’s almost always the igniter first.

The Igniter That Actually Lights on the First Click — No More Cold Nights Waiting for a Spark

The igniter is the first thing to fail on an Accolade furnace, and when it goes, you’re not getting heat — period. A worn or cracked electrode won’t produce the spark needed to ignite the propane, leaving you with a clicking sound and nothing else.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement igniter electrode assembly with wire harness, matched to your furnace model (Suburban 232286 or equivalent for Accolade) — check current price
• Replacement control board assembly for your furnace model, with wiring harness intact
• Propane line wrench or adjustable wrench sized to fit the propane inlet fitting on your furnace
• Multimeter capable of reading DC voltage and resistance
• Needle-nose pliers for disconnecting wire terminals from the control board
• Small flashlight or headlamp for visibility inside the furnace compartment
• Gasket sealant or furnace cement rated for high-temperature use if the igniter gasket is damaged during removal

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Shut off propane and 12V power to the furnace

Turn the propane valve at the tank to the off position. Then locate the 12V breaker or fuse for the furnace in your Accolade’s electrical panel and switch it off or remove the fuse. Wait two minutes to allow any residual gas in the lines to dissipate. This prevents accidental ignition while you’re working and protects you from propane exposure.

Step 2: Access the furnace compartment and photograph the wiring

Open the access panel to your furnace—usually located on the exterior wall or inside a cabinet. Before disconnecting anything, take clear photos of how the wires attach to the control board and igniter. Note the wire colors and terminal positions. This photograph will save you from guessing during reassembly and is especially critical if the wiring harness is old or faded.

Step 3: Test the igniter with a multimeter to confirm failure

Set your multimeter to the resistance setting (ohms). Disconnect the igniter wire harness at the control board. Touch the multimeter probes to the igniter terminals. A working igniter typically reads between 4 and 14 ohms; if you see infinity or an open circuit, the igniter is dead. If resistance is normal but the furnace still won’t spark, the control board is likely the culprit.

Step 4: Disconnect the propane line and remove the old igniter

Using your wrench, carefully loosen the propane inlet fitting at the furnace—turn it counterclockwise slowly to avoid stripping. Once loose, disconnect the igniter wire harness at the control board. Remove the bolts or fasteners holding the igniter electrode assembly in place (usually two or three). Gently pull the igniter straight out; do not force it or you may crack the ceramic insulator.

Step 5: Install the new igniter and reconnect propane

Slide the new igniter into the combustion chamber, aligning it with the mounting holes. Reinstall and tighten the fasteners—snug but not over-tight, as the ceramic is fragile. Reconnect the wire harness to the control board, matching your photograph. Reattach the propane line by hand-tightening first, then use your wrench to snug it firmly without over-torquing.

Step 6: Replace the control board if the igniter test was normal

If your multimeter showed normal igniter resistance, the control board is the problem. Disconnect all wire terminals from the old board—use your photograph as reference. Remove the mounting bolts. Install the new control board in the same orientation, reconnect all wires to their original terminals, and ensure each connection is tight. A loose wire here will cause intermittent failures.

Step 7: Restore power and test the furnace

Turn the 12V breaker back on and open the propane valve at the tank. Set your furnace thermostat to heat and listen for the igniter spark. You should hear rapid clicking for 3–5 seconds, then the burner should light with a soft whoosh. If you hear clicking but no ignition, recheck your propane connection and wire terminals. If there’s no sound at all, verify the 12V power is reaching the control board.

What works

• Direct OEM replacement for SF-Series Suburban furnaces — no guessing whether it’ll fit the ignition module.
• The electrode wire assembly comes pre-assembled, so you’re not trying to route a fragile probe through the burner box by hand.
• Ignition happens on the first cycle after install — no hesitation, no clicking, just instant spark and flame.

What doesn’t

• The ceramic electrode is fragile; if you drop it or press too hard during install, you’re ordering another one.
• Shipping takes 5–7 days from most vendors, which means you’re either waiting in the cold or paying for expedited delivery.

I second-guessed myself halfway through the install when I saw the electrode gap was narrower than the old one—thought I’d grabbed the wrong spec—but once it fired up on the first attempt, the hesitation disappeared. Fit For Suburban RV Furnace Parts 232286,Single Probe Gas Furnace Igniters Electrode with Wire Assembly, Camper Furnace For Suburban 232286 Above 934701426 SF-20, SF-25, SF-30, SF-35 (SF Series)

How to Replace the Igniter

Turn off the propane at the tank first. This is non-negotiable. You’re working around an open flame chamber and propane lines. Wait 10 minutes after shutting down the furnace to let any residual heat dissipate.

Locate the igniter assembly inside the furnace combustion chamber — it’s the small ceramic electrode with a wire running back to the ignition module. You’ll see two mounting bolts holding it in place. Remove these bolts; they’re usually 1/4″ or 5/16″. The whole assembly should slide out toward you without resistance.

Unplug the connector from the ignition module — just a simple push-to-release connector. It should come free easily. Don’t yank on the wire; support the connector housing and separate the male and female ends gently.

Before you install the new igniter, do not touch the ceramic electrode with bare fingers. Skin oils can cause tracking and weak spark over time. Use a clean cloth or lint-free glove. Slide the new assembly into place, align the mounting holes, and reinstall the bolts. Hand-tighten first, then snug them down — you don’t need to over-torque. Reconnect the wire to the ignition module until it clicks.

Turn the propane back on, fire up the furnace, and listen. You should hear a single or double click followed immediately by ignition. If it clicks multiple times and still won’t light, you may have a secondary issue like a bad flame sensor or a control board problem.

When It’s the Control Board: A Larger Problem

If the furnace is completely unresponsive — no clicking, no relay sounds, nothing — the control board is likely your culprit. The board is the electronic brain that orchestrates ignition timing, flame sensing, and safety shutoff. When it fails, the whole system goes dark.

Control board replacements are more involved than igniter swaps. You’ll need to identify the exact board model for your Accolade (usually printed on the board itself), order the correct replacement, and potentially transfer over the harness connectors from the old board. This isn’t difficult, but it requires more careful attention to which wire goes where.

If you’re not confident with the wiring, this is the point where calling a mobile RV tech makes sense. A board replacement can run $200–$400 in labor, but a mis-wired board can create a safety hazard or a permanent furnace fault.

The Bottom Line

Start with the igniter. It fails first, it’s cheap to replace, and the fix takes under an hour. Have the correct part in hand before you start. If the igniter replacement doesn’t solve your problem, then move to diagnostics on the control board or call for professional help. Either way, you’ve narrowed the problem and you’re not sitting in the cold wondering what to do next.