Grand Design Reflection – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement

As Drew Callahan, I’ve spent countless nights in my RV, and after traveling over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, I can tell you that furnace issues are among the most common problems I hear about. It’s usually a Friday evening at some elevation campground, and it’s the family two sites over bundled in blankets. Their furnace is running, but all they hear is a clicking sound, and the question is always whether it can wait until Monday. What I’ve learned from the Grand Design Reflections I’ve crawled under at rallies and campgrounds is that a furnace rarely fails without giving some warning signs first. There’s usually a delayed spark, a hesitation before ignition, or heat that works just fine one night and disappears the next. By the time I receive that call, they’ve likely noticed something was wrong for a week or two—they just hoped it would fix itself. I focus on the furnace igniter and control board for this model, as both can produce identical symptoms: no heat, no flame, just that hollow click-click-click from inside the cabinet. That’s why I structured this piece around testing first, replacing second — so you can actually pinpoint which component has failed before you start pulling parts out.

Going All-In: When a Full Unit Swap Makes Sense

Sometimes, a Reflection’s furnace doesn’t just stumble—it stops entirely, mid-winter, with no recovery. When that happens, repairing an individual part isn’t going to cut it; you need a complete Suburban/Atwood unit swap to restore heat and get your family sleeping warm the same night.

Why this swap works

• Direct fitment into Grand Design Reflection cavities eliminates the need for custom brackets, adapter plates, or improvised mounting solutions.
• Pre-assembled with both the igniter and control board already mounted and wired, so you’re not hunting down separate components at 11 PM on a holiday weekend.
• Built for propane-fed operation with 12V blower integration, meaning you can fire it up immediately after installation without special wiring, adapters, or waiting for additional parts.

Where the friction lives

• Plan for 2–3 hours of hands-on work if you’re experienced with basic wiring and duct disconnection; cutting corners on ductwork sealing or electrical crimps invites cold leaks and uneven heating.
• The cost is high enough that folks often gamble on replacing just the igniter or board solo first, only to find themselves ordering the complete unit anyway when that doesn’t solve it.

I almost convinced myself to order just the igniter assembly at 11 p.m. in a Nevada parking lot, thinking I could limp through winter with a quick fix—until the furnace wouldn’t spark at all, and I realized I was only delaying the inevitable. The Suburban/Atwood RV furnace replacement unit is the way to go when it’s time to stop troubleshooting and start heating.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement furnace igniter assembly matched to your Reflection’s furnace model (verify part number on existing igniter before ordering)
• Replacement control board for Suburban/Atwood furnace (confirm voltage and connector type on old board)
• Wire connectors or crimp terminals if existing connectors are corroded or damaged
• Propane line wrench or adjustable wrench sized to your furnace gas connection fittings
• Multimeter capable of reading DC voltage and continuity
• Flashlight or headlamp for visibility inside the furnace cabinet

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Isolate propane and 12V power

Turn off the propane supply at the tank valve. Switch off the RV’s 12V battery disconnect or breaker feeding the furnace circuit. Wait five minutes to allow any residual gas to clear. This prevents accidental ignition or propane leaks while you work. Do not skip this step—a live igniter can spark unexpectedly, and pressurized propane lines can spray fuel.

Step 2: Access the furnace and photograph connections

Locate your furnace cabinet, typically mounted low on the RV’s exterior wall or in a basement compartment. Open the access panel and take clear photos of the igniter and control board positions, wire colors, and connector orientations before disconnecting anything. Note which wires attach to which terminals. This prevents confusion during reassembly and catches any non-standard wiring your rig may have.

Step 3: Test the igniter for continuity and spark

Set your multimeter to continuity mode and probe both terminals of the igniter element. A good igniter shows low resistance (typically under 10 ohms). If the meter shows open circuit (no beep), the igniter is dead. Next, restore 12V power briefly and listen for a spark click near the igniter tip when the furnace calls for heat. No spark confirms igniter failure. If spark is present and strong, the control board is likely the culprit.

Step 4: Disconnect and remove the failed igniter

With power still off, gently pull the wire connectors from the igniter terminals. If connectors are corroded or stuck, wiggle gently side-to-side rather than pulling straight—forcing them can break the terminal. Unbolt the igniter bracket from the furnace body (usually one or two small bolts). Slide the igniter out carefully, noting its exact position and angle relative to the burner tube.

Step 5: Install the replacement igniter

Slide the new igniter into the same position, aligning it so the tip sits at the same distance from the burner as the original. Reinstall and tighten the mounting bolts firmly but not excessively—over-torquing can crack the ceramic element. Reconnect the wire terminals, matching colors to your photograph. Ensure connectors click or seat fully; loose connections cause intermittent ignition failures.

Step 6: Test igniter function before closing up

Restore 12V power and trigger the furnace thermostat to call for heat. Listen and watch for a bright spark at the igniter tip every 2–3 seconds. The spark should be visible and audible. If spark is weak, dim, or absent, power down immediately and recheck wire connections. A strong spark confirms the igniter is working; a weak spark suggests a control board issue or poor connection.

Step 7: Restore propane and verify full heat cycle

Once igniter spark is confirmed, turn the propane tank valve back on slowly. Set the furnace to heat mode and allow it to run through a full cycle: ignition, flame, thermostat satisfaction, and shutdown. Feel warm air from the furnace outlet. Listen for the normal burner roar and absence of clicking. If the furnace ignites cleanly and maintains flame, the repair is complete. If it still clicks or fails to ignite, the control board is faulty and must be replaced next.

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