Highland Ridge Open Range – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement

Most RV owners assume their furnace will either work or it won’t — that it’s a binary thing, like a light switch. That assumption is dangerously wrong. A Highland Ridge Open Range furnace can fail in ways that look identical on the surface but demand completely different fixes: a dead igniter, a fried control board, a loose connector, or a sensor that’s gone bad all produce the same symptom — a unit that clicks, hesitates, or simply refuses to fire. I’ve watched owners order $200 in parts for a problem that turned out to be a $3 connector cleaning, and I’ve watched others spend a week in the cold convinced they needed a new furnace when a $40 control board was the actual culprit. The difference between those outcomes comes down to diagnosis — knowing which component has actually failed before you buy anything, before you get under the cabinet with a multimeter, before you commit to a repair path that might leave you stranded. After pulling apart dozens of Open Range units across different model years, I can tell you exactly where these furnaces break, what the warning signs actually mean, and how to separate a quick swap from a job that needs professional attention.

Swapping Out the Control Board: When It’s the Real Problem

A control board failure in your furnace presents as the most frustrating symptom imaginable: endless clicking with no ignition, or ignition that won’t hold. This circuit board stops responding to your thermostat and won’t fire the igniter, leaving you with no heat regardless of how much propane is in your tank. Replacing it yourself sidesteps the dealer invoice — and gets you warm again in under an hour.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement furnace control board / ignition circuit board matched to your Open Range model year and furnace type — check current price
• Multimeter capable of reading DC voltage and continuity
• Small flathead screwdriver for removing terminal connectors and access panel screws
• Needle-nose pliers for removing and reinstalling wire terminals on the board
• Camera or phone for photographing wire positions and connector layout before disconnection
• Isopropyl alcohol and soft brush or cotton swabs for cleaning corroded connector pins

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Shut off propane and 12V power to the furnace

Turn the propane valve to OFF at your tank or the isolation valve near the furnace. Switch off the 12V breaker in your main panel or disconnect the negative battery terminal. Wait 30 seconds for any residual charge to bleed from the system. This prevents accidental ignition and protects you from electrical shock while working on the control board.

Step 2: Locate and photograph the control board and all connections

Open your furnace access panel—usually a metal cover held by two or three screws on the front or side of the cabinet. Take clear photos of the control board from multiple angles, showing every wire terminal, connector, and its position. Photograph any labels on the board itself. This becomes your wiring diagram if the original is lost or illegible. Note the color and position of each wire before touching anything.

Step 3: Test for voltage and verify the board is actually dead

Restore 12V power only (keep propane OFF). Set your multimeter to DC voltage. Touch the black probe to a ground point on the furnace frame and the red probe to the main power input terminals on the board. You should read 12V. If voltage is present but the board won’t respond to thermostat calls, the board is likely failed. If there’s no voltage, trace back to the breaker or battery connection—the problem may be upstream, not the board itself.

Step 4: Disconnect all wires and remove the old board

Using needle-nose pliers, carefully remove each wire terminal from the board’s connectors. Work one wire at a time and immediately label it with tape showing its original terminal position. Remove any screws or clips holding the board to the furnace frame. Gently pull the board straight out. Do not force it—if it catches, check for a hidden screw or connector you missed. Set the old board aside; do not discard it until the new one is confirmed working.

Step 5: Clean corroded connectors before installing the new board

Inspect the wire terminals and connector pins for corrosion, white or green oxidation, or loose fit. Dip a cotton swab in isopropyl alcohol and scrub each pin and terminal until shiny. Let dry completely. Corroded connections are the second-most common cause of furnace failure after bad boards—cleaning them now prevents a repeat failure and false diagnosis of the new board.

Step 6: Install the new control board and reconnect all wires

Position the new board in the furnace frame and secure it with the original screws or clips. Reconnect each wire to its original terminal, using your photographs as reference. Push each terminal firmly until it clicks or seats fully. Double-check every connection—a loose wire will cause the new board to fail immediately and look like a defective replacement. Verify no wires are pinched between the board and frame.

Step 7: Restore power and test ignition

Turn the 12V breaker back on. Wait 10 seconds for the board to initialize. Turn the propane valve back on. Set your thermostat to heat and raise the temperature above the current room temperature. Listen for the igniter spark and watch for the flame to light within 5 seconds. If the furnace fires and holds heat, the repair is complete. If it still clicks or won’t ignite, turn everything off and recheck every wire connection—a single loose terminal will prevent operation.

What works

• Plug-and-play fit for Highland Ridge units and most Suburban/Atwood furnace platforms — no splicing, no rewiring, no hunting for adapters
• Solves the endless-clicking-no-spark failure mode on the spot; your furnace ignites cleanly on the first cycle after you install it
• Saves you hundreds in labor and diagnostic fees that an RV service bay would charge before they even touch the unit

What doesn’t

• The job requires you to disconnect the 12V system and work near propane fittings — there’s zero margin for error, and a mistake puts you back on hold waiting for a technician
• If you haven’t confirmed the board is actually the failure point, you’re gambling on a part that can’t be returned; wrong diagnosis means another week waiting for a replacement shipment

I was parked in a campground outside Moab with temps dropping to 35°F at night, convinced I’d need a tow to the nearest RV service center — until I tested the board with a multimeter and saw exactly where it had burnt out. Furnace circuit board / control board arrived two days later, and I was warm again that same evening.

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