I Used Andersen Leveling Blocks at 200 Campsites: Still Going Strong

The Leveling Blocks That Actually Stay Put Under Load

Wood blocks slip, crack, and rot—but plastic leveling blocks that can’t support your rig’s weight are just as useless. You need blocks engineered to handle sustained pressure without shifting, especially when you’re parked on gravel or soft ground for weeks at a time.

After 200 campsites across eight years of full-time RVing, I’ve learned what separates gear that earns its storage space from gear that becomes an expensive regret. Leveling blocks fall squarely into the first category—but only if you pick the right ones.

Why Leveling Blocks Matter More Than You Think

A level RV isn’t just about comfort (though waking up without rolling toward one end of the bed is nice). A properly leveled rig reduces strain on your slides, prevents doors from sticking, keeps your refrigerator running efficiently, and protects your plumbing and electrical systems from gravity-induced damage over time. Ignore leveling, and you’re not just uncomfortable—you’re accelerating wear on systems that cost thousands to replace.

Most RVers start with whatever’s cheapest. I did. I used stacked wood blocks for my first two seasons. They work until they don’t: wood absorbs moisture, swells, then rots from the inside out. Blocks slip sideways on gravel. You level the rig at noon, and by evening—after the ground has settled under the weight and summer heat has shifted the earth—your rig has crept out of level. You’re releveling mid-trip, checking levels obsessively, and questioning whether the hassle is worth it.

What Works

• Zero creep or settling after the initial setup—you level once and the rig stays level, no mid-trip surprises.
• The interlocking design means blocks won’t slip sideways when you’re backing up or the ground shifts under summer heat cycles.
• Handles wet ground and sandy soil without degrading or becoming a slip hazard—unlike wood that absorbs water and becomes treacherous.
• Stackable without wobbling—the engineering matters here, and cheap blocks often have rough surfaces or poor fit tolerances that create tiny gaps and instability.
• Fast setup once you understand the pattern—you’re not hunting for the right-sized wood block or waiting for crushed stone to settle.

What Doesn’t

• They’re heavier than you’d expect—a full set adds real weight to your storage, and repositioning them at each campsite takes longer than tossing wood under the wheels.
• If your jack pads are damaged or uneven, blocks won’t compensate—you need solid contact or they’ll rock under load.
• The initial cost stings more than wood, though the math works out fast once you’re not replacing rotted blocks every season.

The First Time I Really Trusted Them

I second-guessed myself the first time I stacked them to full height—four blocks high looked unstable until I actually pulled the rig onto them and realized the interlocking system turns a tower into something solid. I was parked in Moab, Utah, on a slope that required stacking high on one side. I leveled the rig, set up my outdoor gear, and waited. No settling. No creeping. Three weeks later, when I checked with a level again, the readings hadn’t shifted a fraction of an inch.

That’s when I stopped seeing them as an expense and started seeing them as insurance.

Practical Setup Tips

A few lessons from 200 campsites: First, inspect your jack pads before you ever use blocks. Cracked or beveled pads will rock on even the best blocks. Second, don’t rush the leveling process—get your level out, check side-to-side and front-to-back, and adjust before you commit. Third, on really soft ground (sand, clay after rain), consider laying down a board under the entire stack to distribute weight. And finally, always carry your level with you. Digital levels are cheaper than they’ve ever been, and the few ounces in your storage bay are worth the peace of mind.

ANDERSEN HITCHES