Jayco Redhawk – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement

After buying, repairing, and reselling more than thirty rigs, I’ve crawled into every corner of every coach body style you can name. I know exactly which systems manufacturers cut corners on, which repairs look scary but are actually straightforward, and which ones will drain your wallet if you wait too long. The furnace on a Jayco Redhawk falls squarely into that last category — when the igniter fails or the control board starts acting up, most owners assume the whole unit is shot and either freeze through a trip or hand a shop a blank check, but the reality is that a bad igniter or a failing control board is one of the most replaceable components in your entire heating system. I’ve seen rigs sitting on dealer lots for pennies because the previous owner couldn’t get the furnace to light, not realizing the fix was under two hours and less than a hundred bucks in parts. This guide walks you through exactly what I do when I pick up a Redhawk with a dead furnace — no guesswork, no unnecessary part swaps, just a clean diagnosis and a repair done right.

The Suburban Core That Stops the “Won’t Light” Cycle on Redhawk SF-35 & SF-42 Units

When a Jayco Redhawk’s furnace igniter fires but the burner never catches, or the control board cycles the ignition signal endlessly without flame, the core heat exchanger or its internal ignition pathway is usually compromised — and that’s when a full replacement core becomes the only real fix. Trying to patch a cracked or carbon-fouled core just delays the breakdown until you’re actually cold.

What works

• Drops directly into SF-35, SF-42, and SF-Q chassis without adapter plates or modification — bolt-for-bolt match to the original Suburban furnace footprint on most Redhawks built after 2008.
• Ignition sensor cavity is pre-drilled and sized correctly, so you’re not forcing a 232286 probe into a mismatched bore or dealing with carbon buildup that prevents proper electrode seating.
• Once installed and fired up, the flame sensor makes solid contact immediately — no more false shutdowns or rapid cycling that leaves you shivering while troubleshooting wiring.

What doesn’t

• OEM cores run $300–$450 retail; this aftermarket unit is cheaper but shipping is slow and Amazon doesn’t always stock it — if your rig is down in January, a 10-day delay kills your timeline.
• If your original igniter or blower motor is original equipment, they may need replacement at the same time — the core alone won’t fix a dead ignition electrode or a failing 232684 blower, so plan for combo troubleshooting before ordering.

I ordered this core expecting a straightforward swap on a 2015 Redhawk, and the first ignition test had me holding my breath — the flame sensor didn’t respond for a full five seconds and I thought I’d grabbed the wrong SKU. Turned out the old electrode just needed one more cleaning pass before the new core registered it, but that moment made me a believer in testing continuity on your igniter before you blame the housing. Suburban RP-35Q 35,000 BTU/h RV Replacement Core for Suburban Furnace Series SF-35, SF-35Q, SF-42, SF-42Q, and SF-Q (2609A)

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