Winnebago Ekko – Diesel Heater Glow Plug & Fuel Pump Service

Hi, I’m Drew Callahan. After logging over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, I’ve come to appreciate the nuances of RV maintenance. Recently, I found myself facing a familiar challenge with the Winnebago Ekko’s heater shroud removed, and I’m staring at the combustion head. The glow plug is corroded enough that I can see the carbon buildup around the threads without even unscrewing it. This moment can either lead to a simple fix or a frustrating three-day ordeal chasing phantom fuel pump codes. In my experience with every Winnebago Ekko I’ve serviced, the diesel heater’s cold-start failures almost always trace back to a worn glow plug or fuel pump that has given up. You might encounter fault codes, ignition misfires, or just dead silence when you desperately need heat in the middle of the night. Often, the previous owner gave up and relied on the backup electric element instead of addressing the issue. However, the repair is straightforward once you understand what you’re dealing with, and catching it before the heater fails entirely can save you a significant amount of money. Let me guide you through my actual process for servicing the Ekko’s diesel heating system, drawn from my own experiences with rigs that I’ve purchased, rebuilt, and driven across state lines.

The Glow Plug That Finally Stopped the Cold-Start Guessing Game

A worn or contaminated glow plug is often the root cause of most diesel heater issues. You might find yourself dealing with fault codes, cold mornings where the ignition just won’t engage, or second-guessing the fuel system and control board. In reality, the problem is usually just sitting idle in the combustion chamber. From my experience, replacing the glow plug early on can save you weeks of intermittent heating failures and eliminate unnecessary diagnostics.

Parts and Tools

• Webasto/Espar ceramic glow plug matched to your heater model (typically 24V for Ekko diesel heaters) — check current price
• Diesel fuel filter or fuel pump assembly replacement kit specific to your heater’s fuel delivery system
• Socket set with deep sockets (typically 10mm or 12mm for glow plug and fuel line fittings)
• Diesel fuel line disconnect tool or small wrench set for fuel pump inlet and outlet connections
• Clean diesel fuel or fuel system cleaner for flushing lines and testing pump operation
• Multimeter capable of measuring 24V DC voltage and continuity
• Container or absorbent material to catch residual diesel fuel from disconnected lines

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Isolate the heater and photograph the fuel system

Turn off the heater and disconnect the 24V power supply at the battery or heater control panel. Take clear photos of the fuel pump inlet and outlet line connections, the glow plug wire routing, and any visible corrosion or carbon buildup on the combustion head. This prevents reconnection errors and helps you spot what changed during service. Wait at least 30 minutes for residual heat to dissipate before touching the combustion chamber area.

Step 2: Test glow plug voltage and continuity

Set your multimeter to DC voltage mode and probe the glow plug connector while the heater control is in the “on” position (without starting). You should see 24V. If voltage is absent, the issue is upstream in the control circuit. Switch to continuity mode and test the glow plug element itself—a good plug shows low resistance (typically under 2 ohms). High resistance or open circuit confirms the glow plug is failed and needs replacement.

Step 3: Remove the corroded glow plug

Disconnect the glow plug wire by gently twisting and pulling the connector away from the terminal. Using the appropriate deep socket (usually 10mm), carefully unscrew the glow plug from the combustion head. If it resists, apply penetrating oil and wait 15 minutes rather than forcing it—stripping the threads in the combustion head is expensive. Once removed, inspect the threads in the head for damage or carbon debris and clean with a soft brush.

Step 4: Inspect and service the fuel pump

Locate the fuel pump (typically mounted near the fuel tank or inline in the fuel circuit). Disconnect the inlet and outlet fuel lines using your fuel line tool, catching any spilled diesel in a container. Check for debris, water, or discoloration in the fuel lines. If the pump is original and the rig has high hours, replace it now rather than troubleshooting later. If keeping the existing pump, verify it draws fuel by briefly applying 24V across its terminals while submerged in clean diesel—you should hear a faint buzz and see fuel flow.

Step 5: Install the new glow plug and reconnect fuel lines

Thread the new ceramic glow plug into the combustion head by hand first to avoid cross-threading, then tighten with your socket to snug (do not over-torque—these are fragile). Reconnect the glow plug wire firmly. Reattach the fuel pump inlet and outlet lines in their original positions, using your photos as reference. Tighten fittings hand-tight plus a quarter turn to avoid leaks without crushing the line.

Step 6: Bleed air from the fuel system

Reconnect the 24V power and turn the heater control to “on” without igniting. The fuel pump will run and push air out of the lines—listen for the pump to cycle for 10–15 seconds, then stop. Repeat this prime cycle two or three times. Check all fuel line connections for weeping; tighten slightly if needed. This step prevents air locks that cause cold-start failures and phantom fuel pump codes.

Step 7: Test heater ignition and monitor for fault codes

Turn the heater control to the ignition position and listen for the combustion fan to spin and the igniter to click. The heater should light within 5–10 seconds and stabilize at low flame. If you see fault codes on the display, note them and cross-reference your heater manual—common codes after glow plug replacement are normal during the first burn cycle. Run the heater for 20 minutes on low, then high, and verify steady flame without flickering or shutdown.

What Works

• The ceramic tip resists repeated temperature swings without fracturing—this is crucial when you’re firing it up in twenty-degree predawn cold and then shutting it down by lunchtime.
• It’s a direct swap—threads straight into the combustion head just like the original, and your ignition circuit recognizes it as soon as current flows.
• It dramatically reduces your startup time; my rig went from nearly a minute of hesitation to firing cleanly within seconds, which also indicates that the fuel delivery and controller are functioning properly.

What Doesn’t Work

• You have to remove the heater shroud and work in a confined space—not a two-minute job unless you’ve already done it on your specific model.
• It’s not a cure-all; if the heater still won’t start after you’ve swapped it, you’ll need to look deeper into the fuel circuit or ignition line.

I’ll be honest; I questioned my approach halfway through the replacement, worried that I’d broken something inside the combustion chamber just trying to get the old plug out. But when that new ceramic element glowed orange and the heater fired up on the first attempt, it became clear that this was money well spent. I recommend having a Webasto / Espar ceramic glow plug on hand before you buy any auction rig.

Part-Level Diagnostics

This article provides a comprehensive breakdown of your coach. Once you’ve identified which component is causing trouble, these deeper dives will guide you through specific testing and replacement steps for each part:

• Start here: the inline fuel filter is the cheapest fix for a no-start
• Fuel pump not clicking? Test the dosing pump before replacing it
• Glow plug symptoms: white smoke, failed ignition, and how to test it
• Blower motor: rattles, slow spin-up and overheat shutdowns