Winnebago Ekko – Diesel Heater Glow Plug & Fuel Pump Service

Hi, I’m Drew Callahan. After logging over 80,000 miles across North America in three different rigs, I’ve come to appreciate the nuances of RV maintenance. Recently, I found myself facing a familiar challenge with the Winnebago Ekko’s heater shroud removed, and I’m staring at the combustion head. The glow plug is corroded enough that I can see the carbon buildup around the threads without even unscrewing it. This moment can either lead to a simple fix or a frustrating three-day ordeal chasing phantom fuel pump codes. In my experience with every Winnebago Ekko I’ve serviced, the diesel heater’s cold-start failures almost always trace back to a worn glow plug or fuel pump that has given up. You might encounter fault codes, ignition misfires, or just dead silence when you desperately need heat in the middle of the night. Often, the previous owner gave up and relied on the backup electric element instead of addressing the issue. However, the repair is straightforward once you understand what you’re dealing with, and catching it before the heater fails entirely can save you a significant amount of money. Let me guide you through my actual process for servicing the Ekko’s diesel heating system, drawn from my own experiences with rigs that I’ve purchased, rebuilt, and driven across state lines.

The Glow Plug That Finally Stopped the Cold-Start Guessing Game

A worn or contaminated glow plug is often the root cause of most diesel heater issues. You might find yourself dealing with fault codes, cold mornings where the ignition just won’t engage, or second-guessing the fuel system and control board. In reality, the problem is usually just sitting idle in the combustion chamber. From my experience, replacing the glow plug early on can save you weeks of intermittent heating failures and eliminate unnecessary diagnostics.

What Works

• The ceramic tip resists repeated temperature swings without fracturing—this is crucial when you’re firing it up in twenty-degree predawn cold and then shutting it down by lunchtime.
• It’s a direct swap—threads straight into the combustion head just like the original, and your ignition circuit recognizes it as soon as current flows.
• It dramatically reduces your startup time; my rig went from nearly a minute of hesitation to firing cleanly within seconds, which also indicates that the fuel delivery and controller are functioning properly.

What Doesn’t Work

• You have to remove the heater shroud and work in a confined space—not a two-minute job unless you’ve already done it on your specific model.
• It’s not a cure-all; if the heater still won’t start after you’ve swapped it, you’ll need to look deeper into the fuel circuit or ignition line.

I’ll be honest; I questioned my approach halfway through the replacement, worried that I’d broken something inside the combustion chamber just trying to get the old plug out. But when that new ceramic element glowed orange and the heater fired up on the first attempt, it became clear that this was money well spent. I recommend having a Webasto / Espar ceramic glow plug on hand before you buy any auction rig.

Part-Level Diagnostics

This article provides a comprehensive breakdown of your coach. Once you’ve identified which component is causing trouble, these deeper dives will guide you through specific testing and replacement steps for each part:

• Start here: the inline fuel filter is the cheapest fix for a no-start
• Fuel pump not clicking? Test the dosing pump before replacing it
• Glow plug symptoms: white smoke, failed ignition, and how to test it
• Blower motor: rattles, slow spin-up and overheat shutdowns

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