“Drew, my View’s AC fan just stopped dead. The unit hums when I flip it on, compressor seems to be running, but nothing’s coming out of the vents. Should I be looking at a new motor or is there something simpler?” That’s the call I got from a friend outside Moab last week — and it’s the exact scenario where most owners either blow money on an unnecessary compressor replacement or, conversely, ignore a problem that’ll destroy the motor if they leave it alone. The Winnebago View’s rooftop AC isn’t complicated, but diagnosing the difference between a capacitor that’s lost its charge and a motor that’s actually failed requires a methodical approach and genuine honesty about what you can safely handle yourself. Some jobs on an RV belong in the DIY column. Others — propane work, 120-volt circuits, anything load-bearing — belong with a professional. A View’s AC capacitor and fan motor sit exactly in the middle: the parts themselves are straightforward, but you’re working three feet above the ground near live electrical terminals inside a box that’s been cooking in direct sun, and the cost of misdiagnosing a capacitor as a compressor failure can run several hundred dollars. I’m walking you through the exact sequence I use when I show up to a View with a unit that’s humming silently or a fan that won’t turn — so you can make a real decision about whether to tackle this yourself or when to call for backup.
The Run Capacitor That Restarts Your Dometic Fan — Diagnosis First, Then the Climb
When a run capacitor fails on a Dometic rooftop unit, the fan motor doesn’t just stop — it works overtime under load until the bearings seize, turning what could’ve been a fifty-dollar fix into a motor replacement that sidelines your rig for days. This 60/5 MFD capacitor is the exact Dometic OEM specification that halts that degradation cycle before the motor locks up permanently.
Parts and Tools
- Replacement dual run capacitor matched to 60/5 microfarad and voltage rating on the original — check current price
- Replacement fan motor assembly for Dometic 3312195.000 (only if capacitor test confirms motor failure) — check current price
- Digital multimeter with capacitance setting (20 µF range minimum)
- Insulated screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead)
- Wire connectors or crimp terminals matching the gauge of existing wiring
- Ladder rated for roof work, minimum 20 feet
Step-by-Step Instructions
Step 1: Kill power to the AC unit at the breaker
Locate your View’s main 120-volt breaker panel inside the rig. Flip the breaker labeled AC or Air Conditioner to OFF. Wait 60 seconds to allow any residual charge to bleed from the capacitor. Do not skip this step—the capacitor stores voltage even when the unit is off, and touching live terminals can cause serious injury. Verify the breaker is fully in the OFF position before climbing onto the roof.
Step 2: Access the rooftop AC unit and photograph the wiring
Use your ladder to safely reach the roof. Locate the Dometic AC unit—typically a rectangular box mounted near the center or rear of the View’s roof. Before removing any covers or disconnecting wires, take clear photos of the capacitor terminals and all wire connections from multiple angles. This prevents confusion during reassembly. Note which wire connects to which terminal using the photos as reference.
Step 3: Remove the AC unit’s access cover
Most Dometic units have a plastic or metal cover held by four to six screws. Remove these screws and set them aside in a small container so they don’t roll off the roof. Gently lift the cover away from the unit. You’ll now see the capacitor (a cylindrical or oval component with two or three terminals) and the fan motor mounted to the frame.
Step 4: Test the capacitor with a multimeter
Set your multimeter to the capacitance (µF) setting. Disconnect one wire from the capacitor terminal using an insulated screwdriver—do not touch the terminal directly. Touch the multimeter probes to the capacitor terminals. A healthy 60/5 µF capacitor should read between 55 and 65 µF on the 60 µF side. If the reading is zero, below 50 µF, or the meter shows OL (open line), the capacitor has failed and must be replaced. If the capacitor tests good, the motor itself is likely the problem.
Step 5: Disconnect and remove the failed capacitor
Using your insulated screwdriver, carefully disconnect all wires from the capacitor terminals. Note the wire gauge and terminal type. Unscrew or unclip the capacitor from its mounting bracket. Handle it gently—do not drop it or apply excessive force. Inspect the mounting location for any corrosion, debris, or damage that might have contributed to failure.
Step 6: Install the replacement capacitor
Position the new capacitor in the same mounting bracket, ensuring it sits flush and secure. Reconnect the wires to the correct terminals using your photos as reference—incorrect polarity will cause immediate failure. If the old terminals were corroded or damaged, use new wire connectors crimped to the existing wire gauge. Ensure all connections are tight and insulated from each other and the metal frame.
Step 7: Reassemble and test the unit
Replace the access cover and tighten all screws evenly. Climb down from the roof and return to the breaker panel. Flip the AC breaker back to ON. Return to the roof and listen—the fan should spin freely and quietly within 5 seconds. Feel for air movement at the interior vents. If the fan runs and cool air flows, the repair is complete. If the fan still doesn’t turn or hums without spinning, the motor has failed and must be replaced.
What works
- OEM Dometic part number ensures terminal block compatibility — knockoff capacitors can misfire the soft-start circuit or simply not fit the mounting bracket.
- Rated for sustained rooftop temperatures where generic electronics fail — quality dielectric holds its microfarad rating even on 140-degree-plus black roofs in direct summer sun.
- Motor spins freely immediately after swap, normal airflow returns, and the compressor stops fighting to move a jammed shaft.
What doesn’t
- Replacing a capacitor without testing first means climbing the roof for a part you might not need — a multimeter check takes ten minutes and saves the guesswork.
- If the motor has already seized from years of running under capacitor strain, a fresh capacitor won’t restore rotation — the motor itself will be the next bill, which costs triple and requires a complete unit pulldown.
I second-guessed myself on one call when a new cap didn’t immediately smooth out a rough motor startup — turned out the connectors were corroded, not the cap — but once cleaned, this part did exactly what it promised. Fits for Dometic 3312195.000 Air Conditioner RV AC Motor Capacitor 60/5 MFD, Heavy Duty Air Conditioner Capacitor Replacement, Compatible with Dometic 3312195000 RV Air Conditioner Models




