ALLIANCE AVENUE 32RLS – Stabilizer Jack Replacement

6 min read

Dealer service bulletins won’t mention it, and your Alliance Avenue 32RLS owner’s manual certainly won’t flag it as a predictable failure—but the stabilizer jack on these rigs fails in ways that are almost as reliable as the sunrise. I’ve pulled dead motors out of a dozen of these trailers, dealt with seized scissor mechanisms that haven’t moved in three seasons, and replaced cracked welds at the base where lateral pressure from an uneven campsite finally does the damage. What surprises most owners is how quickly a bad stabilizer cascades into other problems: your slide-out seals start taking a beating with each sway, cabinet doors stop closing flush, and the whole rig starts feeling like it’s floating instead of planted. The repair isn’t complicated—it’s the kind of job that teaches you something about your rig’s framework while you’re under there with wrenches in hand.

The Lippert PSX1: The Upgrade That Actually Solves the Avenue 32RLS Stabilizer Problem

Your Alliance came with a stabilizer jack that was engineered to a price point, not to the realities of constant travel and weather exposure. The motor gives up, corrosion eats the scissor linkage, fatigue cracks split the welds—and none of it’s a surprise once you’ve seen it happen. The PSX1 changes the equation: heavier motor, sealed construction that doesn’t invite every dust cloud and salt spray into the mechanism, and an automatic leveling system that removes the guess-work entirely.

The real advantages

  • Self-leveling takes the manual adjustment out of the equation—deploy it and walk away; the PSX1 extends to the exact height needed without over-stroking the motor or risk of you cranking it past its limit.
  • Sealed motor housing and heavy-wall steel frame construction keeps the road salt, sand, and constant highway vibration from eating away at the gears and winch the way your OEM jack’s exposed design allows after a couple of seasons.
  • The 30-inch stroke is sized specifically for the Avenue’s ride height—you’re not forcing an undersized jack to reach elevation or dealing with the binding and motor strain that comes from fighting inadequate extension.

Where the complications hide

  • The control switch assembly doesn’t come in the box; you’ll either salvage and rewire your old switch (if it’s still functional) or source a replacement control panel from Lippert—both paths add time and unexpected expense at checkout.
  • Mounting the PSX1 may require drilling out new attachment points; the Alliance’s frame geometry doesn’t always line up with universal mounting holes, and you might need fabricated mounting brackets or a welder’s help to get it solid.

I had one installed on my own Avenue last year and honestly second-guessed whether the PSX1 overkill until I hit a pothole at 55 mph and watched the jacks auto-retract instead of bottoming out—that’s when I knew the part choice was right. Order the Lippert PSX1 High-Speed RV Power Stabilizer Jack System, No-Switch Assembly, Automatic Adjustment, Heavy-Gauge Powder-Coated Steel Frame, Up to 30″ Extension – 337199 and budget for a second tech visit if you’re not comfortable with the frame mount.

Parts and Tools

  • Lippert PSX1 High-Speed RV Power Stabilizer Jack System with automatic adjustment and sealed motor housing — check current price
  • Socket set and wrenches sized to fit the mounting bolts and linkage fasteners on your Avenue 32RLS frame
  • Jack stands rated for your rig’s weight to safely support the trailer during jack removal
  • Penetrating oil to loosen corroded fasteners and seized linkage components
  • Wire brush or wire wheel attachment for a drill to clean corrosion from mounting surfaces and frame contact points
  • Torque wrench calibrated to the specifications in your PSX1 installation manual

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Level the rig and disconnect the stabilizer power

Park on level ground and deploy the landing gear fully. Locate the stabilizer jack wiring harness—on the Avenue 32RLS it runs along the frame rail toward the battery compartment. Disconnect the harness at the plug. If your rig has a dedicated breaker for the stabilizer, flip it off. Take a photo of the wiring connection before you disconnect it so you know which wires go where on the new system.

Step 2: Support the frame and identify mounting points

Position jack stands under the main frame rails on both sides, forward and aft of the stabilizer jack location. Raise the rig slightly so the stabilizer jack is no longer bearing weight but still touching the ground. Locate the four mounting bolts that secure the jack base to the frame—they’re typically on the underside of the frame rail. Spray penetrating oil on all fasteners and let it soak for 15 minutes.

Step 3: Remove the old stabilizer jack assembly

Using your socket set, unbolt the four mounting fasteners from underneath the frame. The jack may still be partially extended; lower it gently by hand or with a small hydraulic jack if needed to relieve any binding. Once all bolts are free, slide the old jack assembly out from under the frame. Inspect the mounting surface for corrosion, cracks, or deformation. Wire-brush the area clean and check that the frame is straight.

Step 4: Install the PSX1 mounting bracket and align the jack

Position the new PSX1 jack assembly under the frame, aligning the mounting holes. Insert the four bolts hand-tight first. Check that the jack sits square to the frame and that the scissor mechanism has clearance from any frame components or wiring. Once aligned, torque the bolts to the specification in your PSX1 manual—typically 40–50 foot-pounds for frame-mounted hardware. Do not over-torque; you can crack the mounting bracket.

Step 5: Connect the wiring harness and test deployment

Route the PSX1 wiring harness along the same path as the original, securing it with cable ties away from moving parts and heat sources. Connect the harness to the power source using the connector provided. If your rig has a breaker, turn it back on. Lower the jack stands slowly while watching the stabilizer jack extend. It should move smoothly and stop when fully extended. Listen for any grinding or binding sounds that indicate misalignment.

Step 6: Verify automatic leveling and check for leaks

With the rig still on jack stands, activate the PSX1 system and let it cycle through a full extend-and-retract sequence. The automatic leveling should engage and fine-tune the jack height without manual input. Watch for any hydraulic fluid leaks at the base or along the scissor linkage. If you see seepage, stop immediately and check that all fasteners are tight. Small weeping is normal for the first few cycles as seals settle.

Step 7: Lower the rig and perform a final stability test

Slowly lower the jack stands, allowing the rig’s full weight to transfer to the new stabilizer jack. Once all stands are clear, deploy and retract the jack three more times to confirm smooth operation. Walk around the rig and check that doors close flush, drawers slide freely, and there’s no visible sway or movement. The difference between the old jack and the PSX1 should be immediately obvious—your rig will feel planted instead of floating.