Complete repair guide for the Coachmen Freelander – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement. Follow these steps to diagnose and fix the issue yourself.
Parts & Tools You’ll Need
- Suburban RP-35Q 35,000 BTU/h RV Replacement Core for Suburban Furnace Series SF-35, SF-35Q, SF-42, SF-42Q, and SF-Q (2609A) — Suburban/Atwood RV furnace (replacement unit)
- Fit For Suburban RV Furnace Parts 232286,Single Probe Gas Furnace Igniters Electrode with Wire Assembly, Camper Furnace For Suburban 232286 Above 934701426 SF-20, SF-25, SF-30, SF-35 (SF Series) — Furnace igniter electrode
- DTAIR 33082 Sail Switch Replacement for Select Dometic Atwood RV Furnace(Pack of 2) — Furnace sail switch
- 520814 Rv Water Heater Module Board Ignition Control Circuit Board Compatible with Suburban Furnace SW4D, SW6D, SW6DE, SW12D, SW6DEM RV Water Heaters,Replace 520814 520820 520871 33550L (With lid) — Furnace circuit board / control board
- DTAIR 33082 Sail Switch Replacement for Select Dometic Atwood RV Furnace(Pack of 2) — Furnace high-limit switch
- Suburban 232684 RV Furnace 12v SF-Series DC Blower Motor, SF-35, SF-35F, SVF-35, SF-42, SF-42F OEM Caliber — Furnace blower motor (12V DC)
- RV Carbon Monoxide & Propane Gas Alarm, Briidea Dual LP/CO Detector with Separate LED Indicator Light, 100dB Loud Alarm, 12 VDC, Black — Propane/CO combo detector alarm
- FKM Pro Digital Multimeter Tester TRMS 6000 Counts,Smart Rechargeable Voltmeter 5″Color LCD,Auto-Ranging Automotive Multimeters,for AC/DC Current/Voltage,NCV,Ohm,Capacitance,Resistance,Continuity,Temp — Digital multimeter
Step 1: Diagnose Furnace Ignition Failure
Start by turning on your Coachmen Freelander’s furnace and listening for the blower motor to engage; if you hear clicking sounds but no ignition within 10-15 seconds, or smell propane without flame, you likely have an igniter electrode or control board failure. Use your digital multimeter set to DC voltage to test the control board’s output terminals—you should read approximately 12V at the igniter terminal when the thermostat calls for heat. If voltage is absent or the control board shows signs of burnt components or corrosion, proceed with replacement.
Step 2: Isolate Power and Propane Supply
Turn off the propane tank valve completely by rotating the handle perpendicular to the gas line, then disconnect the negative battery terminal from your RV’s 12V DC system to eliminate all electrical power to the furnace circuit. Wait at least 5 minutes to ensure any residual power dissipates from capacitors on the control board, then verify the furnace doesn’t respond when you attempt to activate the thermostat—this confirms safe isolation before you begin disassembly.
Step 3: Remove Furnace Access Panel and Components
Locate the furnace access panel on your Coachmen Freelander (typically mounted beneath or behind a cabinet) and remove the fastening screws or clips holding the cover in place. Photograph the wire connections to the old control board using your phone before disconnecting anything, then carefully disconnect the sail switch, high-limit switch, blower motor, and igniter electrode from the control board terminals, noting which wire connects to each labeled terminal (typically marked as GND, 12V, IGNITER, SAIL, etc.).
Step 4: Replace Furnace Control Board
Unbolt or unclip the old control board from its mounting bracket inside the furnace housing, then position the new furnace circuit board in the exact same location and secure it with the original fastening hardware. Reconnect each wire to its corresponding terminal on the new control board, matching your photograph exactly—misalignment here will cause complete furnace failure or fire hazard. Double-check that all connections are tight and wires aren’t pinched against the furnace cabinet walls.
Step 5: Install New Furnace Igniter Electrode
Remove the old igniter electrode by unbolting it from the furnace combustion chamber (typically a 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch fastener) and gently pulling the ceramic igniter tip away from the ignition area. Install the new furnace igniter electrode in the same position, ensuring the ceramic element sits approximately 1/4-inch away from the propane burner intake and is angled toward the incoming gas flow. Reconnect the igniter electrode wire to the control board’s IGNITER terminal and ensure the wire has no kinks or exposed copper strands.
Step 6: Verify Sail Switch and Safety Switches
Inspect the furnace sail switch (a small paddle that moves with airflow) for debris or corrosion and clean gently with a soft brush if needed; this switch prevents gas ignition if the blower motor fails. Check that the furnace high-limit switch is securely mounted to the heat exchanger area and its wires are properly connected—this safety device cuts propane if temperature exceeds approximately 200°F. Reconnect your propane/CO combo detector alarm’s battery or 12V power source and verify it powers on with a self-test function.
Step 7: Test System and Monitor for Safety
Reconnect the negative battery terminal and turn the propane tank valve parallel to the gas line to open it fully, then set your thermostat 5 degrees above the current interior temperature to trigger the furnace. Listen for the blower motor to run for approximately 30-45 seconds, then observe the igniter electrode glowing orange and the propane flame igniting—if you see steady blue-orange flame and the sail switch responds, your replacement is successful. Allow the furnace to run for 10 minutes while monitoring the interior temperature rise; if the propane/CO detector shows no alarm and exhaust vents properly through the roof cap, your Coachmen Freelander furnace is fully operational.