Jayco North Point Awning Node Replacement: OneControl Guide

• Awning Interior Replacement Switch Kit: The Solera 40 AMP Power RV Awning Interior Replacement Switch Kit and Plate (Part #308474) — a durable plastic-construction switch with harness included, recommended for verifying or replacing wall-switch input to the awning node circuit.
• Awning Replacement Motor: The Carefree Travel’r Electric RV Awning Replacement Motor (Black) — suitable for motorized awnings up to 21 feet; recommended when node diagnostics confirm the motor is the fault source rather than the node itself.
• Awning Rafter Rivet Slider Assembly: The RV Awning Rafter Rivet Slider Assembly (replaces 830463P) — a recommended inspection item when servicing the awning system, as worn sliders can cause motor overload faults that mimic node failures.

What Is the Jayco North Point Awning Node and Why Does It Fail?

the Jayco North Point fifth wheel relies on the Lippert OneControl integrated automation system to manage slideouts, awnings, lighting, and leveling jacks from a single touchscreen panel or paired smartphone app. Within this architecture, each power awning is controlled by a dedicated OneControl awning node — a small electronic control module typically mounted near the awning motor inside the sidewall or in a compartment adjacent to the awning arm.

Your Jayco North Point owner’s manual won’t tell you this: the awning node is where the OneControl system talks to your motor, and it does that conversation over a Controller Area Network (CAN) bus. The node listens for extend and retract commands from the panel, then reports back what the awning is actually doing. They’re built tough, but moisture finds its way in through tiny gaps, a converter that’s dumping dirty voltage, the constant shake of highway miles, or—rarely but documented—a firmware update that corrupts the whole thing.

When one starts dying, the signs are unmistakable: your awning vanishes from the OneControl device list like it never existed, the motor sits silent no matter what you press on the panel or phone, a solid or blinking amber light shows up on the node housing itself, or the diagnostics screen starts throwing CAN bus fault codes at you.

How Do Owners Identify and Locate the Correct Awning Node on a North Point?

Start by pulling your North Point’s Lippert OneControl installation manual — it’s year-specific and lives on Lippert’s dealer portal, or one phone call to Lippert Components gets it in your inbox. On most North Point floorplans, the main entry awning node sits behind the interior wall panel right next to where the awning fabric rolls up, usually behind a removable trim panel or tucked into an access door in the exterior storage bay.

The node itself is small—about 3 inches by 2 inches—with a multi-pin Deutsch or Molex connector sticking out one end and a CAN bus daisy-chain port on the other. Look for a white or silver label on the housing that has the Lippert part number printed on it. The awning node you’ll replace most often on a North Point is Lippert part number 759555 (OneControl Awning Node, 12V), but your build sheet or a direct call to Lippert’s tech line should confirm yours matches that before you order, since they’ve swapped part numbers across different production batches.

Before you buy anything new, go into the OneControl panel and hit Settings → Devices → Re-Scan Network. A node that looks completely dead sometimes just lost its CAN bus connection because a connector came loose or the power blinked for a second. A re-scan brings it back online without touching a wrench.

What Is the Step-by-Step Process for Jayco North Point Awning Node Replacement?

This walk-through covers most Jayco North Point model years running the Lippert OneControl setup. If 12V electrical work makes you nervous, get an RV tech shop to handle it instead.

Tools and Preparation

Gather these before you start: a digital multimeter, T20 and T25 Torx drivers, a plastic trim pry tool, a roll of masking tape and marker for labeling, the Lippert OneControl app on your phone or tablet, and the new node. Kill the shore power and flip the coach battery disconnect to OFF.

Replacement Procedure

1. Isolate the coach. Kill shore power. Flip the main battery disconnect to OFF. Wait two minutes so the OneControl capacitors can fully bleed down.
2. Access the node. Pop out the trim panel or access door in front of the awning node. Most use T20 Torx screws or clips that friction-fit; use plastic tools so you don’t gouge the wall.
3. Photograph all connections. Take photos of the node and every wire hooked to it from a few angles before you unplug anything. Slap masking tape labels on each connector so you know where it goes back.
4. Verify power and ground. Flip the battery disconnect back on for a moment and use the multimeter to check 12V DC ± 0.5V at the node’s power pins while the ignition and coach are running. If you see less than 11V or more than 13.8V at idle, your converter or wiring has a problem that needs fixing before the node gets swapped. Turn the battery disconnect off again before moving forward.
5. Disconnect the failed node. Press the locking tab on each Deutsch or Molex connector and pull straight—don’t twist or pry. Unscrew the two T25 Torx bolts holding the node bracket (8–10 in-lb torque when you put it back together).
6. Install the replacement node. Bolt the new node to its bracket and tighten those fasteners to 8–10 in-lb. Plug in all the harnesses until each one clicks solid.
7. Restore power and perform a network scan. Turn the battery disconnect back on and plug in shore power. Go to Settings → Devices → Re-Scan Network on the OneControl panel. The new node should show up in the list in 30–60 seconds.
8. Pair and configure the node. Tap the new awning node in the device list. The OneControl panel will ask you what type it is (Awning) and where it lives (Main Entry, Slide Topper, whatever). Name it correctly and confirm. Per Lippert’s setup steps, run the awning in and out all the way so the node can figure out where the limits are.
9. Test all awning functions. Run extend and retract from the panel, the wall switch if you have one, and the OneControl app. Watch that the position updates right on all three places.
10. Reinstall trim panels. Snap the trim panels and access doors back in place. Do a final walk-through and make sure no wires are pinched or kinked.

The Wall Switch That Actually Isolates Your Jayco Awning Node Problem

When your awning won’t move in either direction and you’ve ruled out the motor itself, the wall switch is where diagnosis starts—and it’s where most owner-mechanics burn hours troubleshooting harnesses that have nothing to do with the real problem. Swapping this switch takes five minutes and tells you whether the fault is the command signal or something dead in the node downstream.

What works

• Harness arrives wired and ready; you’re not splicing, stripping, or hunting for shorts after installation—just connect it and test.
• The 40-amp capacity swallows voltage spikes from the node relay without failing, which is where cheap knock-off switches die on the second retract.
• The plastic bezel color-matches your Jayco interior and doesn’t scream “I fixed this myself”—matters if you’re selling the rig or trading it in on something new.

What doesn’t

• Solera’s fulfillment is a crapshoot; you might wait 7–10 days even ordering through Amazon, and that’s agony when you’re sitting in the sun with no awning shade and nowhere to go.
• If the node itself is actually bad, this switch swap solves nothing—you’ve burned a week on diagnosis and still have to yank the awning motor assembly apart to replace the control board.

I’ve had this switch installed twice on the same rig before realizing the node relay was the real culprit, and it stung—but the replacement itself worked flawlessly on that third attempt. Grab the Solera 40 AMP Power RV Awning Interior Replacement Switch Kit and Plate (Part #308474) and test it before you tear into the motor assembly.

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