WINNEBAGO MICRO MINNIE 1700BH – LP Gas Detector Replacement

Most owners of the Winnebago Micro Minnie 1700BH never replace their LP gas detector until it fails catastrophically—and by then, you’ve already been breathing air that the sensor didn’t catch. These units have a finite lifespan printed right on them, but I’ve pulled detectors out of rigs that were five, six, even seven years past their rated end date. The problem isn’t laziness; it’s that a silent, invisible sensor on a wall inside a cabinet doesn’t scream for attention the way a leaking water line does. But propane doesn’t care about your detection schedule. When an LP gas detector ages out or fails, you lose the one safety net between a propane leak and a very bad situation unfolding in a space the size of a bedroom. I’ve done this swap on the Micro Minnie more times than I should have to, and every time the owner says the same thing: “I didn’t realize it was that old.” This replacement takes an afternoon, costs less than a night in a paid campground, and it’s the kind of job that actually matters when things go sideways.

The Briidea Dual Alarm That Actually Fits the Micro Minnie’s Power Budget

The original LP detector in these Winnebagos pulls power inconsistently and can fail without any warning sign—you won’t know it’s dead until your nose catches something the sensor should have. The Briidea dual LP/CO unit is a straight replacement that operates cleanly off 12 VDC and includes separate LED readouts so you’re actually watching what the detector is doing instead of hoping it’s working.

Parts and Tools

• Replacement LP/CO dual alarm detector rated for 12 VDC operation with separate LED indicators — check current price
• Wire strippers for cutting and preparing 12 VDC power leads
• Crimp connectors or solder and heat shrink tubing to match the gauge of existing detector wiring
• Screwdriver set (Phillips and flathead) for removing mounting screws and trim ring
• Multimeter to verify 12 VDC supply at the detector location before and after installation
• Flashlight or headlamp for working inside the cabinet where the detector mounts

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Kill power to the detector circuit

Locate the 12 VDC breaker or fuse that feeds the LP detector—usually labeled on the main panel inside the galley or bedroom cabinet. Switch the breaker to OFF or pull the fuse. Use your multimeter to confirm zero voltage at the detector’s power terminals before touching any wires. This prevents accidental shorts and protects the rig’s electrical system during the swap.

Step 2: Document the old detector’s wiring

Take a clear photo of the existing detector showing how the positive and negative wires connect to the terminals. Note the wire colors and gauge. If the detector is hard-wired with solder joints, photograph those too. This reference prevents reversed polarity on the new unit, which will destroy it instantly. Keep the photo visible while you work.

Step 3: Remove the old detector

Unscrew the mounting bracket or trim ring holding the detector to the wall—usually two to four Phillips screws. Gently pull the detector away from the wall and disconnect the power wires. If wires are soldered, use a desoldering tool or solder sucker to cleanly separate them. If crimped, cut the connectors and strip about half an inch of insulation from each wire. Set the old detector aside.

Step 4: Prepare the new detector’s power connections

Strip half an inch of insulation from the new detector’s positive and negative leads. If the old wiring used crimp connectors, attach matching connectors to the new leads and crimp them firmly with a crimper tool. If soldering, tin both the new detector leads and the old rig wires, then solder them together and cover the joint with heat shrink tubing. Match polarity exactly to your photo.

Step 5: Mount the new detector and restore power

Position the new detector in the same location as the old one and secure it with the provided mounting bracket and screws. Ensure it sits flush against the wall. Switch the breaker back ON or reinstall the fuse. The detector should power up immediately—watch for LED indicators to illuminate, confirming 12 VDC is reaching the unit.

Step 6: Test the alarm function

Most dual LP/CO detectors have a test button on the face. Press and hold it for three to five seconds until the alarm sounds—you’ll hear the 100dB horn and see the LED flash. Release the button and the alarm should stop within two seconds. This confirms the sensor is receiving power, the alarm circuit works, and the unit is operational. If no alarm sounds, stop and recheck your power connections.

Step 7: Verify detector operation over 24 hours

Leave the rig closed up and let the detector run for a full day. Check back to confirm the LED is still illuminated and steady. If the LED goes dark or flickers, the power connection may be loose or the detector may be defective. Reopen the cabinet, reseat all crimp connectors or solder joints, and test again. Once stable, note the detector’s expiration date on your maintenance calendar.

What works

• The 100dB alarm cuts through everything—engine noise, fan noise, road vibration—you will hear it, period.
• Two separate LED indicators tell you whether you’ve got an LP problem or a CO problem; you’re not staring at an ambiguous warning light trying to decode what’s actually happening.
• Current draw is modest and steady—no battery voltage sag, no weird drain cycles that bleed your coach 12V system dry overnight.

What doesn’t

• The mounting bracket is designed to fit everything generally, which means it fits the Micro Minnie’s mounting location poorly—you’ll need to drill fresh holes because Winnebago’s factory holes almost never align properly; bring a drill bit.
• Watch for loose pins rattling inside the connector housing when the unit arrives—some shipments go out with crimps that didn’t seat properly, so verify your 12V connection works before you close up the wall and drive away.

I second-guessed whether the Briidea’s proprietary mount would clear the fuse panel on my flip unit until I realized the bracket is actually removable and the sensor itself fits any standard RV cutout. Order the Safe T Alert – Mini Dual LP/CO Alarm – Flush Mount Black – and verify the connector seats all the way in before you close up the wall panel.