WINNEBAGO MICRO MINNIE 1700BH – Furnace Igniter Replacement

Your furnace won’t spark, the thermostat’s calling for heat, and you’re staring at a dealer quote that reads like a down payment on a used car. So what’s actually dead—the whole furnace, or just the igniter module? On a Winnebago Micro Minnie 1700BH, I can tell you it’s almost always the igniter, and you don’t need to hand a service writer $400+ to fix it. The furnace igniter is a wear item that nobody thinks about until it stops working, and by that point most owners have already convinced themselves the rig needs a complete furnace swap. In reality, you’re looking at a single component that takes an afternoon and costs a fraction of what the dealership wants. I’ve diagnosed this exact failure dozens of times—misidentified as thermostat failure, propane system issues, or board-level electrical problems—when the real culprit is a burned-out spark module that you can pull and replace without special training or tools.

The Control Board That Actually Survives a Micro Minnie’s Tight Engine Bay

The Suburban SF furnace ignition circuit board fails silently—no spark, no ignition, no heat—and most owners mistake it for a dead furnace until they’re already shivering or, worse, trying to resell. The Lrichy OEM 520820 is the exact replacement that handles the 12VDC control logic without the cross-compatibility guessing game that kills half the cheap knockoffs in your shopping cart.

What works

• Drops directly into the existing harness with zero rewiring—the connector and pin layout match OEM spec, which means no voltage drop surprises once you button it up.
• Furnace fires on first attempt after installation; you’ll hear the igniter click immediately when you toggle the thermostat, not the dead silence that makes you wonder if you bought the wrong part.
• Holds voltage stable under load, so the igniter electrode doesn’t go weak mid-winter—the board doesn’t degrade after three months like the $30 Amazon gambles.

What doesn’t

• Ship speed is unpredictable; I’ve seen 2-day delivery and 3-week waits from the same seller, which matters when someone’s already without heat.
• Doesn’t repair a failed sail switch or bad electrode—if the board was only half your problem, you’ll still have a furnace that won’t hold flame once it sparks.

I second-guessed myself once after swapping the board and the furnace still wouldn’t ignite—turned out the electrode gap was corroded, not the board itself—but ordering the right OEM part eliminated one variable and actually let me diagnose the real failure. Lrichy OEM 520820 RV Furnace Ignition Circuit Board for Suburban SA/SF/SFV/SH/NT Furnaces, 12VDC Control Module for SF 20/25/30/35/42, NT 12/16/20/24/30/34, 521099 520741 520871

This post contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases at no extra cost to you.