Coachmen Mirada – Furnace Igniter & Control Board Replacement

Skip replacing a bad igniter in your Mirada and you’ll be shivering in an unheated rig before the week’s out — possibly stranded if temperatures drop fast. I’ve spent enough time under Mirada furnace panels to recognize the pattern: the Suburban 232286 igniter fails predictably in these units, and when it goes, it takes your heat with it. No backup, no gradual decline you can plan around. One day the thermostat clicks and the burner tries to light; the next day you get nothing but the sound of the blower spinning useless air. In October in the mountains or January anywhere north of Texas, that’s not just uncomfortable — it’s dangerous. This walkthrough covers the exact steps I use to identify a dead igniter, pull the old one, and swap in the replacement, plus the control board swap that almost always needs to happen alongside it.

Sourcing an Igniter Built to Last Through a Mirada’s Heating Cycle

The Suburban 232286 igniter carries the reputation it earned — carbon buildup on the electrode, corrosion creeping in from the connector end, and a sudden refusal to spark when you need heat most. Catch it before a complete failure and you’ve got a narrowing window; let it go cold and you’re stranded with a furnace that won’t even attempt ignition.

Why this igniter performs

• Built to the exact factory specification for Mirada units — slides into position without hunting for the right clip orientation or second-guessing pin layouts, and the furnace recognizes it immediately on the first light cycle.
• Electrode geometry holds its gap across multiple heating seasons without drift — meaning you won’t be troubleshooting cold-start stalls every year and a half like the bargain-bin alternatives force you to.
• Wiring harness arrives pre-sealed and factory-insulated — no exposed strands that oxidize or short against the burner housing as vibration and heat wear away the insulation over months of use.

Where this gets complicated

• Stock levels for this exact part number shift unpredictably — place your order 3-5 days ahead of when you actually plan to fire up the furnace, because waiting two weeks while backpedaling through a parts delay and no heat isn’t an option for anyone living fulltime in the rig.
• The control board almost always needs replacement alongside the igniter in Mirada systems — a new igniter alone won’t solve a furnace that’s locking out and refusing to read the flame sense signal because the board itself has failed.

I once swapped this igniter thinking it would solve a no-heat call on a 2019 Mirada, only to find the control board was already toast and wouldn’t recognize the new electrode signal. Fit For Suburban RV Furnace Parts 232286,Single Probe Gas Furnace Igniters Electrode with Wire Assembly, Camper Furnace For Suburban 232286 Above 934701426 SF-20, SF-25, SF-30, SF-35 (SF Series)

Parts and Tools

• Replacement Suburban 232286 igniter assembly with probe, electrode, and wire harness — check current price
• Furnace control board matched to your Mirada’s year and Suburban furnace model
• Wire strippers and small needle-nose pliers for disconnecting igniter and board connectors
• Multimeter set to measure DC voltage and resistance
• Flashlight or headlamp for visibility inside the furnace compartment
• Small Phillips and flathead screwdrivers for panel and mounting fasteners

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Kill power to the furnace at the breaker

Locate your RV’s main electrical panel and switch off the 12V breaker feeding the furnace. Wait 30 seconds for any residual charge to bleed off. This prevents accidental shock when handling the control board and igniter wiring. Even though the igniter runs on low voltage, the control board can store charge. Take a photo of the breaker position before switching it off so you remember which one to restore.

Step 2: Access the furnace and photograph the igniter setup

Open the furnace access panel—usually located on the side or bottom of the Mirada’s furnace cabinet. Before touching anything, photograph the igniter’s position, the wire routing, and how the connector sits on the electrode assembly. Note the exact orientation of any clips holding the igniter in place. This photo prevents fumbling during reassembly and catches details your memory will skip.

Step 3: Test the igniter for spark and measure resistance

Set your multimeter to resistance mode (ohms). Disconnect the igniter wire harness at the connector. Probe the igniter terminals and record the reading—a good igniter typically reads 4–14 ohms depending on temperature. If the reading is open (infinite) or near zero, the element is dead. Also visually inspect the electrode tip for heavy carbon buildup or corrosion. A blackened, pitted electrode confirms failure even if resistance reads borderline.

Step 4: Remove the old igniter from its mounting

Gently pull the igniter probe straight out of its ceramic holder or clip—do not twist or rock it side to side, as the electrode can snap. If it’s held by a spring clip, release the clip first. Slide the wire assembly out of any routing clips or grommets along the furnace wall. Keep the old igniter; you may need to reference its exact model number when ordering the control board replacement.

Step 5: Disconnect and replace the control board

Locate the control board mounted on the furnace frame, usually near the igniter connector. Photograph all wire positions and connector labels before disconnecting anything. Unplug each connector one at a time and label the wires with tape if labels are faded. Remove the board’s mounting screws and slide it out. Install the new board in reverse order, ensuring each connector seats fully and clicks into place. Do not force connectors; they should slide smoothly.

Step 6: Install the new igniter and reconnect wiring

Slide the new igniter probe into its ceramic holder, ensuring it sits fully and any clip snaps into place. Route the wire harness along the same path as the old one, securing it with existing clips. Plug the igniter connector onto the new board’s igniter terminal, pressing until you hear or feel a click. Double-check that the connector is fully seated—a loose connection will prevent spark and leave you troubleshooting a good part.

Step 7: Restore power and test the ignition cycle

Switch the furnace breaker back on. Set your thermostat to heat and lower the setpoint below the current temperature to trigger a call for heat. Listen for the blower to start, then watch for a spark at the electrode tip (you may see a faint blue glow inside the combustion chamber). The burner should ignite within 3–5 seconds. If you hear the blower but see no spark, turn off the thermostat immediately and recheck the igniter connector and board wiring.

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